Pizzahutblog: 2001 Ford taurus fuse box

This 2000 Ford Taurus came in with the complaint that the a/c did not work. The customer had already figured out that the 15 amp fuse number 28 in the underhood fuse box was blown. It is worth noting that in the wiring diagrams that fuse is referred to as fuse number 128.

Power on one side.

No power on the other side. The fuse is blown.

The a/c compressor relay.

I installed a new fuse and unplugged the relay. Started the engine and turned the a/c on. I installed the relay and watched for the fuse to blow. Nothing happened. I checked the terminals at the relay socket and found that I did not have power there. Rechecked the fuse and it was blown. Did I not see or hear the fuse blow? Let's try this again. Installed another new fuse. Checked to make sure that the fuse had power on both sides and that I had power at the relay socket. All was well. I started the engine and turned the a/c on. Before I installed the relay I wanted to confirm that there was still power at the relay socket. No power and the fuse was blown. Okay the compressor is not the culprit in this case. Time to look at the wiring diagrams.

The wiring diagrams showed that the oxygen sensor heater elements were connected to this fuse. I checked the wiring at the front O2 sensor and all was well. I went to check the rear O2 sensor wiring. Pretty hard to see, so I used a mirror. I found the O2 sensor connector laying on the EGR valve tube.

After some disassembly I got the connector out to be able to repair the problem. I had to install a new O2 sensor and a new harness connector.

I also investigated to find the reason for the connector laying on the hot EGR valve tube. I seem as if someone had changed the DPFE sensor. They could not get one bolt undone. So they mounted it with one screw and rerouted the hoses going to the DPFE sensor. Well in doing all of this the connector was forced off of its's mounting location and fell on the hot EGR valve tube. I removed the screw using a pair is vise grip pliers to grab the stripped head. Properly mounted the DPFE senor and correctly routed the hoses. I then secured the O2 sensor sensor connector to it's mounting clip.

Another one done. Sad that the whole thing could have been avoided with quality workmanship on the DPFE sensor replacement. In case you were wondering the DPFE stands for Delta Pressure Feedback Exhaust. It measures the pressure difference in the exhaust system at two different points. The sensor sends a voltage signal to the PCM. The PCM uses that signal to determine if the EGR valve responded to the PCM command to open. A malfunction usually results in a code P0401 insufficient EGR flow.

2001 FORD TAURUS PCM FUSE BLOWING, 2001 ford taurus fuse box

rickrohio

2001 Ford Taurus

Electrical problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 100000 miles

Hello. The 30 amp pcm relay fuse under the hood blew the other day leaving my wife stranded. I tried replacing it back it pops immediately after you turn the key to run. I am trying to figure out where to start tracking a short. There was a remote starter installed on this car a few years ago, but my understanding is the pcm circuit is not affected by this wiring. We also had the heater core replaced this past summer. Is it possible a wire could have gotten pinched and has now rubbed through. I thought about unplugging the pcm module and testing. If it still shorts then I know it's something else. What else is on this circuit.

have the same problem?

Sunday, December 27th, 2009 AT 9:06 AM

13 Replies

Nothing else is on that fuse..change the relay in spot 31, that's the PCM power relay.

Sunday, December 27th, 2009 AT 10:23 AM

Ok. Replaced the relay and nothing different. Fuse blows instantly. It doesn't if the relay is out. Any other ideas?

Monday, December 28th, 2009 AT 9:31 AM

Pull that power distribution box and check for any sign of burnt or melted wires, if non found, remove negative battery cable, unplug the PCM, re attach battery cable and see if it blows with PCM out of the circuit, it may actually need a new one! Check wire colors at PDC and trace for shot at PCM connector.

Monday, December 28th, 2009 AT 1:42 PM

The problem is I can't find the pcm module. Can you give me some guidance as to where it's located?

Mark_Bankert 2008-10-16 12:56:01 UTC #1

I just bought a 2001 Ford Taurus and for a few days the blower and A/C & heat were working beautifully but now the blower (motor?) won't work at all. Is it just a matter of replacing a fuse or something to get the blower to work and is that something that I could do myself? Also, I noticed that the left half of the instrument panel does not light up. Is that something that I can replace myself as well. Thanks for any help.

nbpt100 2008-10-16 14:29:47 UTC #2

it sounds like a fuse blew. It is easy to replace and harder to find out why. Go to your fuse box and on the cover there should be a map of what each fuse controls. Replace any blown fuses with the same amp rating as stated on the map. Your owners manual will give you the location of the fuse box. It is probably under the dashboard- drivers side. This is the easy part. If the fuse is replaced or confirmed good and the blower still does not work it is likely a blown motor. There is likely a short circuti some where in the motor. Unfortuatly the blower is inside the dash and it requires allot of work to get at it. This job is not for a beginner. If you are experience working on cars and have a manual. Have at it.

I would replace the fuse and cross my fingers all works and it does not happen again. If it does, you may have to take it to a shop that is very experienced in electrical repairs.

Cougar 2008-10-16 17:02:04 UTC #3

Along with checking the fuses, the blower motor usually has a relay in the power line to the motor, so check it also.

Mark_Bankert 2008-10-16 19:24:49 UTC #4

Thank you. Any idea on the instrumental panel not lighting up on the left side (from my original email)?
Thanks again.

transmission shift fuse keeps blowing on my 2000 ford taurus on 2000 Ford Taurus, 2001 ford taurus fuse box

September 29, 2014

I was having this same problem on my 2001 sable and after replacing many major parts I decided to crawl under the car and look for my self(being a housewife ,I had no idea what I was looking for )but low and be hold after looking around for a few minutes I noticed a plug that was not all the way on and this seems to have solved my fuse blowing delima!!this plug was right past the charcoal canister(going towards the engine from the rear of car-it is connected to the charcoal canister hose and its in a :Y: type connection-sorry I don't know the names of these but thought it may help someone else out:))I have spent major money and went through many computer readings for such a simple thing--ggguuurrrr-good luck!

January 23, 2011

I am experiencing the same problems as you are with my F-250. Did you find out the issue? I would really appreciate knowing. Thanks so much.

i had the same issue with my ford taurus i took it to the mechanic and the problem ended up being a short in the wiring it costed me a little bit of money for the labor but the problem was fixed pretty cheap they told me if i didn the narrowing down for them the total cost would only have been 95$ parts and labor included and i took it to a well know mechanic in kenosha wisconsin

January 11, 2011

To accurately answer your question, I need to understand your concern. There is no "shift fuse". Do you mean shift indicator or is your vehicle not upshifting? This vehicle is equipped with an electronic valve body which is commanded by the PCM. Do you mean the solenoid body power source?

COMMENT by Visitor.

January 11, 2011

My vehicle is not upshifting.The fuse/relay location # that keeps blowing is 28 in the power distribution box.

January 11, 2011

According to the owners manual, that appears to be a 15 amp fuse that covers the following components:

HEGO Sensor, Transmission Shift Solenoid, Canister Vent, A/C Clutch Relay, Thermactor Bypass Solenoid

You do not necessarily have an internal shift solenoid or transmission wiring harness issue -- although you may. You could have an oxygen sensor or wiring issue (HEGO), Canister Vent issue, AC clutch relay issue or thermactor bypass solenoid issue. I would recommend disconnecting all the other components one at a time - then replace the fuse and road test. If at the end you have all those components off line, and the fuse still blows you know you are dealing with a transmission harness or internal issue with the solenoids, etc.

Naturally, if you disconnect some of this, check engine warnings and so forth will come on (if they have not already. after all the fuse has blown. ). just keep doing your narrowing down of the concern and you will reach your answer.

COMMENT by Visitor.

January 12, 2011

Thanks DaveJHM, Thats what I will do. I will disconnect all those components one at a time and road test. Hopefully we can figure this out. I will let you know how it went.

Taurus/Sable Electrical Problems, 2001 ford taurus fuse box

I've got other posts on here about what happened after I put my battery in backwards. This post is more towards repairing the damage that was done. It appears to be the alternator. The battery light is on the dash, no others until today, but that is explained below. Any advice is appreciated.

Stopped a local shop, didn't have a lot of confidence in them, but they offered to check the alt for free. Hooked up a device that measured the voltage, but it had a scale, not digital. He said it showed 11 volts, I notice it was in the "weak" section. Has me turn on the lights and stuff and nothing happened to the dial. He said that was because the alt was bad. I asked about the megafuse (between batt and alt. cables)and he said that if it was blown, nothing would work. Does that sound right?

He said I need a new alternator. He uses the brand A-1. Said it is 299 for the part because of the 24 valve, and it is hooked to the serpentine. I did notice on NAPA.com that the serpentine alternator was much more $$. He figured 4 hours labor, depending on how hard it is to get everything off to get to it. Almost 500 total!!

I left to think about it. Well, tried to leave, car wouldn't start. They got a device and basically jumped it, he said it was a boost and should get me home. Less than 4 miles later and I literally limped home the last mile. Seemed like the fuel pump was stopping, more idiot lights came on, the ABS and air bag came on first, by the time I got home the brake one was on and the radio seemed to turn on with static. I hope I didn't screw up some more.

Nothing was said about the computer except that the car wouldn't go if I blew that.

Can anybody shed some light on this? Is there anything else between the alt and the batt that could cause a problem, or is just a fried alternator and I am stuck with 500 repair bill? How to tell if I did in the computer. Can they check the alt while on the vehicle by attaching volt readers to the alt. I am so worried now that it is the computer.

Here's what happened. Your alternator is broken, that's the thing that keeps your battery charged. So you have been running off of the battery. The battery wasn't fully charged and you tried to limp home. Weird things happen as the battery depletes and the voltage drops. The car should be just fine once you get the battery charged up and a new alternator put in.

If you want to drive the car for short distances go buy a battery charger at K-mart and charge up the battery. Keep in mind though that you just may get stranded if you drive too far or go too long between charges. If you get stranded you'll have to call a tow truck or pull out the battery and take it somewhere and charge it up and then put it back in.

Isn't this getting old yet. Just maybe it's time to pay the price and pay someone to fix your car.

Good thing I didn't pay the price, they might not have found the problem. It was the mega-fuse. A five dollar part. After lots of reading on this board and others I was given the suggestion to locate and test that fuse. It is between the battery cable and the alternator cable, where they meet at the engine compartment fuse box. Most people have never heard of it. One shop I was at didn't know what it did when I mentioned it. My friend and his volt/fuse tester checked it and it was bad. It saved my alternator and I saved several hundred bucks because I have the darn 24 valve dohc engine which is not easy labor to replace.

Thanks everyone who helped, and there were a few, each with a slightly different tip. I hope this info helps someone else.

I have a 2002 Taurus & have had the same problem on & off. I asked my dealer & he told me that sometimes the door sensors stick & this problem drives the dealerships crazy! He really didn't have a fix for it either. Mine just works it way back to normal usually the same day or by the car being turned off overnight. sorry I couldn't be of more help or info. confuse:

I own an 02 ford taurus and having this recent issue, idles like it wants to stall when stopped and when I go to accelerate it shimmies and acts like it wants to stall, yesterday it did it worse when the a/c was on. but today it does it no matter what. and suggestions as to what it is?

My 95 Sable wagon (low mileage) blew a fuse (#8 circuit) that controls things like interior lights/radio/clock etc. Replaced the fuse and it blew too. Measured 12 volts across the fuse, so the downleg side is grounded somewhere. Verified with meter. At the same time, the power door lock switch stopped working. "Lock" position does nothing, "Unlock" position turns on the parking and instrument lights. Lock switch is on circuit #14. Parking lights are on circuit #4. All other components of these two circuit are working OK. Checked floor wiring beneath carpet on driver's and passenger side for corrosion or anything obviously amiss. Found nothing - everything looks good as new. Disconnected whatever connectors I could find with no effect, so the problem is localized to the front of the vehicle. Removed instrument panel to see if I could get at the maze of wires beneath the dashboard but couldn't. Removed door panels and checked all wiring. Found nothing amiss.

Working hypothesis: wire in #8 circuit has broken and fused to ground, probably inside the boot connecting to the door (driver's side or maybe passenger side). Two other wires belonging to #14 and #4 have developed a high resistance short to one another, probably due to heat from #8 short or due to whatever caused #8 to short. So "Unlock" puts voltage on parking light circuit, and short prevents "Lock" from developing enough voltage to activate the mechanisms.

Questions: Does this sound plausible and if so, how do I find the shorted wires? Its impossible to get into the boot or anywhere near the cables leading to the boot and even if I cut the wires (LtG/Y) that run through the boot on both ends, how do I replace them?

If this isn't plausible, any other ideas are welcomed. Oh yes, why do the color codes on the wires not always correspond to the colors on the schematics, or better yet,where can I find a scematic specific to this vehicle?

Thanks for any help.

1997 Ford Taurus, I did a head gasket job on the car and now ther is no spark or injector pulse. Everything is plug in, check that 100 times, and we even swapped some parts, crank sensor, cam sensor, pcm, control mod. I just don't know what is wrong. A number of us are STUMPED! Did I mention the parts work in the other idenical car. HEEEEELLLLP!

check the motor has all grounding straps connected to it. had same problem with a 94 mustang with a 3.8.

My car is driving me insane. I have had the ignition switch replaced, the camshaft sensor replaced, the computer replaced twice, all the wires taken off and cleaned, the battery tested normal, and so did the alternator. All in the last four months. Car still doesn't run right. It will stall in any condition or situation. When it stalls everything goes out like you take the battery cable off the car. Most of the time will crank right back up and drive fine for a little while. Then starts acting up again. Mechanic gave up. Please if anyone has had similar problems or knows whats wrong I would love to hear from you. Ready to give up on it. mad:

Ford Taurus Fuse Box Diagram, 2001 ford taurus fuse box

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Ford Taurus Fuse Box Diagram | moreover 2000 ford taurus fuse box diagram furthermore 2007 ford taurus fuse box diagram moreover 1996 ford taurus fuse box diagram together with 2000 ford taurus fuse box diagram moreover

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DISCLAIMER

This information is provided to help those who wish to disable the DRLs on their vehicle. The advice given here was contributed by several people. We give no guarantee whatsoever with respect to its accuracy. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! We will not be held responsible for ill side effects to your vehicle or to you physically as a result of performing any of the methods described herein. PLEASE TAKE ALL PRECAUTIONS.

First off, as of December 2010, there are no federal laws in the US that mandate DRLs on passenger vehicles. In fact, The National Highway Transportation Safety Administration has denied a petition from General Motors to make DRLs mandatory. If your dealer refuses to disconnect your DRLs, saying "they're a mandatory safety item," then your dealer is lying, plain and simple.

Also use your browser's search feature to find your vehicle on this page.

If you can contribute information to this list, please e-mail us at

Those of you who have already contributed - THANKS!

GM General Information

It may help you to know that if you plan on ordering a new General Motors car or truck, but don't want DRLs, you don't have to have them. Simply insist that the car be ordered with RPO T62. RPO means "Regular Production Option" T62 "Lamp System Daytime Running - Delete." (Unofficial list of 2002MY GM truck RPOs ) Remember, DRLs are not mandatory in the United States. You don't have to have them if you don't want them. If buying from stock, INSIST that the dealer disable the DRLs as a condition of sale. Contrary to what the dealer might say, there is no law in the US preventing them from doing so.

Many GM have a "DRL fuse", associated with a DRL Module & and up to 3 relays. Usually HI beams in series. Some the LO beams are reduced by 2 volts with a double diode assembly. Some, the fuse also controls the Fog lights and "automatic lights on" at dusk feature. Other cars the fuse will not deactivate the fogs and auto "ON". 1999 and 2000 more likely to have the "auto on" feature, related to the GM liability for no tail lights at night.

On some newer GM models it may be possible to press the "Dome Override" button 3 or 4 times within 6 seconds. This will disable the DRLs while the vehicle is running. When it is restarted, the DRL function will reset to "always on." We've heard that this works on full-size and S-series trucks.

There are a some inexpensive DRL switch options available from www.EasyPerformance.com and www.ZZPerformance.com for some GM models.

I believe most recent GM models (99+), use a VCR tape sized DRL module that will be under the dash, behind radio, glovebox, over pedals, etc. There are two 8 pin connectors, the smaller blue connector C2; A is GND, B is NC, (jump A to B to disable) or pin C (pink) is ignition power, if fused separately, just remove fuse or disconnect power wire. Here's a site with excellent directions and pictures. Failing to find the module, there is a headlamp relay (5 pins) located in the engine compartment or near the steering column, and if you bend over one of the coil pins, #85 or #86, or the normally open contact #87, that will disable the DRL. (#30 and #87a are needed)

94-97 S-10/Blazer, Diode in fuse panel, left end of dash

97 Chev Lumina, Monte Carlo #33, fuse in RH side of dash.

98 Cadillac, Fuse under hood

98 Sunfire, supposedly computer controlled "owner option" fuse?

99 Pont Grand Prix; has 16 pin DRL module, fuse removes DRLs and Auto-ON (there is also a fuse for air bags, SRS)

2000 Camaro, direction signal DRL module behind radio

GM cars that I have seen, the DRL has a switch at the parking brake. To defeat DRLs while driving, simply a jumper at switch. (Note, this may illuminate the BRAKE light on your dashboard, making brake system failures unreportable! ).
UPDATE: As of 2003, GM cars now sense when parking brake is set and the vehicle is moving more than 3 mph. If both are true, DRL's are turned on automatically.

GM Specific Models

2002 Cadillac STS I looked under the hood and popped the cover off the fuse box. Under the lid is a diagram of the fuses with labels. One of them (#24 on my model car) said "DRL" on it. I pulled that fuse and voila! Success and everything else is still working just fine.

1999-2000 Cadillac STS I'd like to add a simple method for disabling DRL's WITH NO KNOWN NEGATIVE SIDE EFFECTS. On my 1999 Cadillac STS, the high beam bulb is used for the DRL. I cut the negative (ground) wire feeding this bulb, and attached (grounded) it to another metal screw (any other grounding source) by another piece of wire under the hood. I was pleased to find out that (for some reason) the daytime running lights were no more. Also, the high beam headlight switch remained fully operational, activating the high beams at night when desired, and during the day as a "flash to pass feature."

1996-2002 Cadillac Eldorado
1996-1997 Cadillac Seville
1996-1999 Cadillac Deville
Info for all three at Cadillac Forums posted by user CadillacSTS2003.

2005 GM full size vans
These have turn-signal DRLs that can be turned off at the switch, but you need to do that every time you start the van. Normally the headlight switch is in the 'DRL' position. Presumably the spring that returns the headlight switch to 'DRL' (from 'off') could be removed from inside the switch and you would have a normal headlight switch with DRL's optional yet fully functional if you left the switch in the 'DRL' position. Unfortunately, this is not the case. The DRLs still come on if the vehicle is started with the light switch in the left position.

2000-2002 Buick Century

Locate Body control Module (BCM). This unit is a black box approximately 6" square and 1-1/2" thick with 4 connectors entering one end. Hunting with the door open and key in the ignition, follow your ears to the chime inside. On the 2000-2002 Buick Century, it resides to the left of the steering column, right above your left foot. There is a bump in the fuzzy trim panel that covers the under dash area that gives clearance to the BCM wiring harness. The trim panel does not have to be removed completely to get in far enough to work. Pull out a couple of the panel retainers and work the left end down and back until you have working room. Those panel retaining fasteners are a push in "Christmas tree" type and can be difficult to remove. Persevere, this is the hardest part, The actual mods are easy.
The 4 connectors should now be visible almost even with the bottom of the dash. The connectors are color coded for identification. The first connector is C1, and is blue. We will be working with 4 out of the 7 wires in this connector. Locate the light blue, light blue w/white stripe, dark blue, and dark blue w/white stripe. The white striped wires are the front left and right feeds from the turn signal switch. The plain color wires go to the front left and right turn signal lamps. Very simply, cut all 4 wires about an inch from the connector and separately insulate the wires from the connector. Splice (and insulate) the like colors together that go into the harness. Dark blue to dark blue w/white, and light blue to light blue w/ white stripe. This removes the DRL function from the front turn signals.
The second connector is C2, and is purple. We will be working with only 2 of the 14 wires in this connector. Locate the yellow w/black stripe, and immediately adjacent to that, find the light green w/black stripe. These two wires connect to the Ambient Light Sensor. Cut these two wires about an inch from where they emerge from the harness. Connect a 4700 Ohm resistor (1/4 watt is fine) across the wires from the connector, and insulate. This makes the BCM stay in the daylight mode, and disables the automatic headlight function.
Test your work. Check operation of turn signals and headlights. Replace trim panel and congratulate yourself for a job well done.

2001 Buick Regal LS
Toasted1Too writes:
All that needs to be done is access the BCM and 1) locate connector C3 wire A4 (gray with black stripe), cut it and install a toggle switch between the cut ends, that takes care of the auto park lamps. 2) locate connector C3 wire A11 (white), cut it and install a toggle switch between the cut ends, that covers the auto head lights. These toggles can be remotely located with some wire and a little time.

This method provides the ability to switch between automatic operation and manual operation using the toggles and the headlight switch will still work regardless of the position of the add on toggles. It does prevent the instrument cluster from lighting up except for the PRND321 and odometer but my intention is to reduce the load on the alternator and battery while waiting or when warming the engine in the winter.

1999 Buick LeSabre
Buicks can be difficult to defeat the DRL circuits, because the DRL function is built into their LCM (Light Control Module) All outside lighting functions are controlled by the LCM, which has preprogrammed IC's. The key to defeating the DRL function in the Buick LCM is the keep the Park signal high (+12V). If you just want to permanently defeat the DRL function, here is how you do it. Cut the lite Green wire going to pin A8 a few inches from the connector on the LCM. Remove about 1/4" of insulation from the Pink A7 wire a few inches from same connector. Now, remove about 1/2" of insulation from the lite Green wire that comes from the connector and wrap it tightly around the bare area of the Pink wire. Tape up this joint, and tape up the cut end of the lite Green wire.

That's it. Holding the Park lite Green wire at 12Volts whenever the Ignition is on makes this system think that you always have the car in park and therefore, it will never engage the DRL function. Don't do this at the park switch, or you will screw up your automatic door locks!

Where is the LCM? on Le Sabre's, its mounted on the center of the firewall, low, just above the floor "hump". Push it towards the drivers side will disengage it from it's mounting clips. If your Buick does not have a rear seat heating duct connected to the heating ducts, then you will have to remove the plastic block off plate, which has a piece of plastic on it's left side blocking you from pushing the LCM towards the drivers side so that you can disengage it from it's mounting clips. Other Buick models seem to have the LCM mounted under the dash behind the glove box.

Want to have a switch to select "with or without" DRL? Get a 2 position, 3 terminal switch & about 6' of small wire. Cut 3, 2' pieces of wire and connect them to your switch. Cut the lite Green wire going to pin A8 a few inches from the connector on the LCM. Remove about 1/4" of insulation from the Pink A7 wire a few inches from same connector. Connect the wire from the center pin of your switch to the lite Green wire going to pin A8 of the LCM's connector. Using one of the other 2 wires from your switch, connect it to the other end of the lite Green wire. Using the last unused wire from your switch, connect it to bare place on the Pink wire. Tape up all of your connections. Find a handy place and mount your switch. Moving the switch from one position to the other will permit or defeat the DRL function in your Buick, without disturbing any other functions in your car.

1998 Buick LeSabre
The 1998 Buick LeSabre (and probably other years) has a very annoying combination of features: DRLs and automatic headlights without override. The Automatic headlights would go on when the car was under a bridge, in a shadow, etc, and could not be turned off except by ambient light. Very annoying, especially since this would dim the radio display, etc, during the day. I have taken the car to a shop to have it modified in a way that is unique to this type of car; the chassis computer has been fooled into thinking the car is always in PARK. The Automatic headlights now function once and can be overridden (meaning you can put them out if you go under a bridge, etc, but if you start the car at night, or drive into the night, they will come on automatically). Since the DRLs function off of the gear selector and not the parking brake, they never come on any more. There have been some negative side effects to this procedure; firstly is the disabling of the automatic locks, and secondly the pilot light that lets you know the headlights are on no longer functions. There is an under-dash switch that bypasses the modification. Any competent car electric shop should be able to do this for

Audi

2013 Audi models (perhaps back to 2010 models), using the MMI interface:

Select Car (button). Navigate through menus:
Car Systems
Vehicle Settings
Exterior Lighting
Daytime Running Light->Off

No special tools, or trip to dealer required. -)

BMW

BMW most models. DRL set by the dealer at owner's request.

Chrysler

2001 Chrysler Concorde (and Dodge Intrepid) Pull the 10 amp sue out of "Cavity" 15. Basically, remove fuse 15. It's in the fuse list in the instruction manual.

Dodge

1994-2002 Dodge Ram I succesfully by-passed them by disconnecting the DRL moudule (drivers side fender well black box directly below the brake booster). I cut the red/orange stripe wire then cut the red/gray stripe wire connected them together and plugged the DRL module back in. I soldered/heat shrink the wires together and installed back in the factory split loom for a clean install. This should work on all 2nd generation Rams, 1994-2002.

1999 DODGE RAMThis is probably superceded by the procedure described above.
The fuse for the DRL is also the fuse for the fog lights, pull the fuse and you lose DRL's, but your fog lights too. If you unplug the DRL module, you will also lose your high beams. The only way to defeat them is to ground out the wire going to your parking brake. However, you will have to deal with your "Brake On" light staying on in your dash.

2006+ Dodge Caliber Uses high beam DRLs but can be reprogrammed by the dealer.

Ford

2012+ models. It appears that DRLs are a configurable option on the vehicle's computer. A Ford dealer should be able to connect to the OBD port on the vehicle and disable the DRLs. The aftermarket may also have tuners that can connect to the computer with the ability to disable DRLs.

2012 Fiesta. Remove Fuse F-23 from the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fuse box. Absolutely no side effects such as Chimes, lights, etc. DRLs are gone and lights function normally with the switch. This could possibly apply to previous years.

2011 Transit. Under the hood on the uppper left corner is the engine fuse box. Remove relay 31C and the DRLs are gone. Noe side effects. Lights can be manually turned on/off and no chimes, lights, or anything whatsoever in the instrument cluster. May apply to earlier models as well.

2001 Ford Taurus. Just rendered my DRL'S out of service. The DRL relay pack is located on the left front inner fender panel and is held in by two plastic clips that are bent back to allow easy removal of the holder. Remove the smaller of the two relays (white) in color and drive with out the lights. Everything else appears to function normally.

2004-2007 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. The DRL's (if equipped) are softwared into the Smart Junction Box (SJB) which is located in the left side kick panel. The SJB does all vehicle lighting and electrical features and includes the fusebox and keyless entry. This SJB must be replaced to delete the DRL's. I got mine directly from Ford (Part # 5F1Z-15604-C) for about $199.20 and it literally can be replaced by a basic shadetree mechanic in 15 minutes. The new SJB can be ordered with or without keyless entry and comes with two new remotes and includes a new keypad code if yours features the option. There is NO WAY to program the lights off and applying the parking brake one click does turn them out but chimes incessantly when vehicular movement is detected.

2001 Ford F350. The DRL Module for this vehicle is behind the drivers headlight in the engine bay. Just unplug it, I have had zero side effects from doing it.

FORD Taurus/Mecury Sable/others. DRL module located under LF fender, "DRL fuse" located in engine compartment fuse/relay panel. Operates by pulse modulation to reduce voltage to HI beams.

1999 Ford Taurus. Remove fuse #15 from the underhood fuse/relay panel located on the radiator support near the battery.

Ford Explorer 2002-2006. In the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side between the battery and firewall, remove the #14 10A fuse. This controls the DRL module only, no side effects, warning lamps on the dash or loss of any other light functions.

Ford Expedition 1997-1998. Under the hood open the fuse box (driver side) and simply pull out fuse 9. This will disable DRL and no side effects.

FORD F-150 Trucks Replace the DRL relay (located top of pass side dash) with a loop back plug (or modify it). But first try unplugging the dropping resistor (located at Left front of truck, underneath). Web site.

2004 Ford E-250 Van (also reported to work on 2006 E-250)
Loosen this shroud by removing the 4 clips shown.
photo

Pop the air inlet tube out of the shroud, rotate it up and out of the way.
photo

Lift the shroud up. Behind it you will see the Daytime Running Light module. Unplug the gray connector.
photo

Tape up the connectors to keep water out.
photo

Put everything back together. This completely disables the Daytime Running Lights. The headlights still work manually and I have no other problems after doing this.

FORD E-Series - Method 1. On 2005 to Current E-Series vehicles, the DRL's can be disabled by placing a Normally Closed 12 Volt Isolation Relay in circuit 294 (White with Light Blue stripe) near the DRL module and triggering the relay open. The DRL module is located on the passenger side of the grill area in front of the radiator.

FORD E-Series (2005) - Method 2. Follow the 2004 directions to find the 2005 E Series Daytime Running Light Module. Simply cut the power wire (White with Light Blue Stripe) and cap the ends with electrical tape.

FORD F250-550 trucks. On 2005 to 2007 F250-550 trucks, the DRL's can be disabled by placing the common side of the switch of a 12 Volt Isolation Relay to circuit 162 (Light Green with Red stripe) at the Battery Junction Box (BJB) side of the circuit, connecting the Normally Closed Relay pin to circuit 162 away from the BJB and the Normally Open Relay pin to ground. By providing a ground signal on circuit 162, the DRL Relay #1 is opened and the DRL's will not be powered.

FORD F-250 and F-350. Fuse number 12 in the high-amperage fuse box under the hood on '99 and newer F-250/350 superduty. Unfortunately, this will also disable the horn and perhaps other accessories. We are told that for the 2005 models the DRLs are now run through fuse number 13.

Honda/Acura

2012 Civic. Remove fuse #21 (7.5A) under the dash. No more DRLs and no idiot lights. At least Honda made it simple.

2009-2011 Pilot
1. Locate the interior fuse box next to and above the brake pedal
2. Remove fuse #18 "Daytime Running Light Main" (20 Amp) to disable the main DRL control unit - this will light the "DRL" idiot light on the dash any time the DRL would have been on
3 Remove fuse #37 "Day Light" (7.5 Amp) to disable the "DRL" idiot light on the instrument cluster
Done! no re-wiring, no resistors, no power draw, no idiot lights, and easy to put back to factory if you want to.

2008 Acura TL. Remove fuse #3 (15A) in the interior fuse box. However, the DRL indicator light on the dashboard is tripped when you do this.

2007 Honda Fit. Disconnect DRL module located under the steering wheel, above the pedals. It's about half the size of a VHS tape.

2006+ Honda Civic. Confirmed on 2009 Civic Si as well. Simply remove fuse #37 (7.5A) from the INTERIOR fuse box (under the far left side of the dash). Goodbye DRLs. Absolutely NO after-effects (i.e. - idiot lights, etc.). Clean and simple!

2006 Honda Accord. It's very easy to disable the DRL on the 2006 Accord Coupe. I can only guess that sedans are probably the same. I have done it w/no ill effects other than what I will note. Simply pull fuse #3 from the interior fuse box. It's a 10 amp fuse in the bottom row 3rd from the left. It's clearly shown in the owner's manual. The only downside is that it causes a DRL warning light in the instrument panel to light. It is supposed to tell you there is a problem w/the DRL circuit. It does turn off when you have the headlights on (but not the parking lights). I don't find that the warning light is overly annoying (though that is subjective), especially since it turns off when the headlights are on.

2007 Acura MDX. In the auxillary underhood fuse box, there are two 10amp fuses. #1 and #2 for the left and right DRL respectively. Pull them out. no more DRL. The fuses will not affect any other system.
Source: acuramdx.org forums Note, this causes a "Check DRL System" light to come on in the middle of the instrument panel. One possible fix is to replace the DRL bulbs with resistors. tho' a larger wattage resistor may be needed.

2011+ Honda Odyssey If you pull the #27 fuse in the driverside fuse panel on the 2011-12 Honda Odyssey, it will eliminate the DRL's with no idiot lights resulting.

2009 Honda Pilot. I took out two 10 amp fuses in the #12 and #13 slots located under the driver side fuse box. The bright yellow DRL malfunction light will still show on the instrument cluster, so I went a step further and disassembled the dash panels to get the instrument cluster out.

To disassemble the upper dash panel to get to your instrument cluster. You'll need to first pull off the side cover of the dash board. (To get to it, you'll need to keep the driver door open all the way). There is a screw that holds down the bottom half of the driver dash panel. You will then also need to pull out the left portion of the center console. Once you are able to remove this, you can pull the bottom half of the driver dash panel out. After this is pulled out, you can then pull the upper half of the driver dash panel out. This will give then give you access to take out the instrument cluster.

Turns out that the lights that power the cluster are led lights, not halogen bulbs like I had originally assumed. So I went ahead and cut out an old pice of bicycle innertube (can use anything to cover the led light) and filled it in the light chamber behind the DRL indicator. Each indicator on the instrument cluster has light chambers over the led/circuit board.) I also used black electric tape to cover any possible leaks of light going through that chamber just in case the inner tube wasn't successful in blocking out any of the light. I suppose two layers of black electrical tape will work as well. Then assemble the gauge cluster and dash panels back in reverse order.

Total process took me about 30 minutes. The first 15 was trying to figure out how to to disable everyting w/o breaking anything off.

1997 and later Honda/Acura. To disable the highbeam DRL for all Hondas/Acuras 1997 model year or later, just look for the DRL fuse in the fuse box under the dash. It should be a 7.5A fuse. There is another one that is 10A, but it doesn't need to be removed. This worked for both my 1997 Honda CRV Canadian version and 2004 Acura RSX

Hyundai

Santa Fe (2007). We have reports that the DRLs are disabled simply by removing a fuse from the fuse panel.

Jeep

Jeep TJ (2003). Many people disable DRLs (daytime running lights) by unplugging the module itself. This works but will usually disable some other aspect such as your high beam indicator. The Jeep TJ (mine is a 2003 Sahara) uses a motion sensor to send a signal to the DRL module to tell it the Jeep is moving and to activate the daytime running lights. To defeat this, you need to open the cable assembly leading into the DRL and find the wire which is coded WHITE/ORANGE and cut this wire so that the motion signal never reaches the DRL and the lights stay off until YOU want them by YOUR choice. There are no adverse effects whatever; everything else continues to work properly. I went a step further since I do want them on if I am on the highway for a long trip. I cut the wire and connected the two ends of this wire to a switch which is fixed under the hood. One position is DRL ON, the other is DRL OFF. I don't know what years or models this will work for but I suspect it would work for many situations.

Jeep TJ (1997+). (Possibly superceded by above.) Manufactured in Canada come equipped with dim DRL's. To disable them, you need to unplug the control module that operates them. Its located on the firewall under the hood, drivers side; Its about the size of a beeper (pager) Unplug it and make sure it dosen't dangle down onto the engine. The only side effect I have noticed is, the high beam indicator that tells you that your bright lights are on, doesn't work. But who really needs that anyway.

Jeep Grand Cherokee. Auto ON lights. Lift out the dash defroster grill and open up the 3/16" hole (left center) to 3/8" and your lights will come on just after sunset instead of the middle of the afternoon.

Kia

2010 Kia Forte (Canadian Version)
DRL fuse in dashboard fuse panel. No more DRL, no special indicator in the cluster.

Lotus

2006+ Lotus Elise and Exige
Remove green wire from switch pack D117M0008F. Details here (with photos). Note, you do NOT have to remove the instrument panel. Scroll down on that page to read the comments.
"If you take out the light/starter panel, you can see the switch pack. Follow the wiring harness, you will see the bullet connector. Unplug it and tape the bare end. I have the worlds largest hands, and I had no problem reaching in there."

Mazda

2003 Mazda Protege 5
Below are the instruction to disable the DRL's. With these instructions it disables the DRL's, allows you to use your fog lights as drl's, puts the drl's on a switch as in my province (Canada) a car needs drl's to pass MVI. Also when you turn on your hi-beams the fog lights will stay on.

NOTE: The wire colors are SOLID COLOR/STRIP ; if there is one color then there is no stripe.

1. Find the Fog Light relay. Located in the drivers side foot well. Look up.
2. Using the 10mm deep socket unbolt the two bolts holding on the DRL, FOG light and other stuff up there.
3. On the FOG LIGHT RELAY cut RED wire about 2" from connector.
4. Crimp a male butt connector on the connector side, and crimp a female butt connector on the harness side.
5. Take a length of wire about 3' and crimp a female butt connector on one end.
6. Plug the new wire into the RED wire you just cut with the male connector on it.
7. Label the free end of this wire as FOG LIGHT RELAY.

8. Find the DRL module. Again located in the drivers side foot well. Look up.
9. Unplug the 2 harnesses. You only need to modify the small harness with 7 wires in it.
10. Cut the YELLOW/GREEN wire about 2" from the connector.
11. Crimp a male butt connector on the connector side, and crimp a female butt connector on the harness side.
12. Cut the BLUE/ORANGE wire about 2" from the connector.
13. Crimp a female butt connector on the connector side, and crimp a male butt connector on the harness side.
14. Plug wire YELLOW/GREEN into wire BLUE/ORANGE on the harness side.
15. Take another length of wire about 3' and crimp a female butt connector on one end.
16. Plug the new wire into wire YELLOW/GREEN on the connector side.
17. Label free end of this wire as DRL OFF.
18. Run both wires up the wire harness and secure with tie wraps.

19. Remove the cover on the side of the dashboard to expose fog light switch.
20. Run the free wires along the harness and into the area of the foglight switch. Use tie wraps to secure.
21. Find a suitable location for the SPST switch. (I used the empty switch plate)
22. Terminate the free wire labeled DRL OFF to one side of the switch.
23. Terminate another length of wire to the other side of the switch.
24. Label this new wire as GROUND.

25. Unplug the fog light switch harness.
26. Cut RED/WHITE wire about 2" from connector.
27. Crimp a male butt connector on the connector side, and crimp a female butt connector on the harness side.
28. Take a length of wire about 1' and crimp a female butt connector on one end.
29. Label the other end GROUND.
30. Connect the new wire to the connector side. Leave the other end free for now.
31. Splice the wire labeled FOG LIGHT RELAY into the LIGHT GREEN/BLACK wire.

32. Find a good ground location.
33. Take both free wires labeled GROUND and terminate them with a ring lug.
34. Remove the bolt. Put the ring lug over the stud. Fasten the bolt back on.
35. Double check all connections are solid.
36. Plug the harnesses back into the switches.

Mitsubishi

2006+ Galant and Eclipse. Pin 2 on front ECU module. Discussion and pics at mitsubishi-forums.com

Nissan

2011 Versa. Under the hood, look for the fuse compartment, which is just in front of the battery. On the compartment cover, there will be a “DTRL”, which is a 10 amp fuse. Pull that fuse out and that is all. DRL’s are gone and no side effects. Possibly applicable to earlier years.

2012 Sentra (possibly older models too). Pull the 10 AMP fuse labeled DTRL (check for location under the fuse box cover diagram) and that will disable those stupid DRL without side effects (lights, chimes, etc). Lights can be manually controlled with the On/Off switch.

Saab

Saab 92-X Remove the glovebox. If you can't figure out how to do it you probably don't have the skill required to complete this installation. It's just a bunch of phillips head screws.

Looking at the gaping hole your glovebox used to occupy, you want to focus on the far-right. There is a small, vertically oriented black box with a white and yellow connector plugged into the bottom of it. Unplug it and screw your glovebox back in. Done.

Saab 900. Remove "DRL fuse" 9-3 is #15, dash side.

Subaru

2013 Subaru Crosstrek XV, 2009-2012 Subaru Forester There is a DRL resister that is only employed during DRL on time so when this resister is disconnected it defeats the DRLs and only the DRLs, all other light functions bypass this resister and are not affected by the removal of this resister being out of circuit. This makes it easy to defeat, but it takes a little effort to get to the resister/connector that is located in front and down of the engine intake air filter housing, mounted to the front of a sheet metal fender cross support. I removed the air filter housing to gain access to the resister connector that has 2 wires green and white going to the resister that is approximately 3 inches long 2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick, you can also access from the bottom by removing the plastic splash guard. I simply disconnected the resister connector folding back the wire and tying it to itself and making sure the connector points down so as not to collect water.

2007 Subaru Tribeca. Like some of the other Subaru's the drl module is black approximately 3x4x1.5 inches, has a label that reads SUBARU 84067XA02A UNIT DRL ASSY AISIN made in usa, has a white connector with 10 pins 4 large ones and 6 small ones and 6 wires, a black connector with 8 pins 4 large ones and 4 small ones and 5 wires. The module is located up behind the dashboard left drivers side between the left kick panel and the parking brake up high so it is difficult to see and reach from under the dash looking up, remove the lower panel for access. The black connector has a gray wire going to pin 4 that needs to be disconnected, this wire is the signal coming from the alternator that the engine is running, so that when the engine is running the drl's will turn on. But with this wire disconnected the drl's will always stay on because who ever designed the circuit did not put a voltage drop down resistor in the circuit inside the module, so you need to solder a resistor between 3k ohm and 4 k ohm from pin 4 to ground, a resistor grater than 4.2k ohm will have no effect. I opened up the module's case and soldered a 3.3k ohm 1/4 watt resistor to the back side of the circuit board, doing it this way will retain function if the gray wire is reconnected with the 3.3k ohm resistor in place and will not harm the circuit.

2000 SUBARU LEGACY GT. Look underneath the dashboard (driver side) and you will see 2 plastic modules bolted to the steering column. One is usually mounted in Horizontal (Seat Belts Module), the other in vertical (DRL Module). One will have only 1 white connector(horizontal-seat belts), the other (vertical-drl module) will have 2, one black and white. We are concerned about the one with 2 connectors mounted vertical. When you look more closely it will probably have blue label with white letters on it. Here is what my said "UNT DRL ASSY AISIN 84067AE00A," also that module has 2 aluminum plates attached on both sides of the plastic box. Don't unplug the black connector because you will loose most of the functionality of your headlights, just remove the white one. Everything else will work fine, except no more DRL's.

2000-2004 SUBARU LEGACY L and L/SE.

The info on your website for the Subaru Legacy (including 2002 wagon) is not quite correct [ed. note, added "GT" specification above]. It works for Legacy GT headlights, but not for Legacy L/SE lamps. I got the following quote from the post at this forum and have verified that it works (on my own car):

For a non-GT 2000-2004 Legacy (single element headlamp), unplug the same white wire harness as the instruction for the GT model (dual element headlamp). Now as it says on the GT you can leave it unplugged, sadly this doesn't work on the single element headlamps (L & L SE), where this leaves you without any working headlights at all! What you need to do is with the white harness unhooked, clip the blue/black wire & tape off the cut ends. Then plug the white wire harness back in. Doing this retains all current light function but does disable the DRL.

2003 SUBARU BAJA Same as 2000 LEGACY (above).

2005-2006 SUBARU BAJA SPORT
On Sport models there are indeed two control modules bolted to the sides of the steering column. Look under the dash and there will be a module closer to the passenger's side with only one connector, THAT'S NOT IT. There will also be a module closer to the driver's side THAT IS IT (both are mounted vertically). The DRL module (the one on the driver's side) has 2 connectors, one colored black (lower one) and one colored white (upper one).

The connectors are released by pressing a small tab toward the top, center of the connector, on the long flat side of the connector, also facing the driver's door. Press the tab and pull on the end of the plastic connector, near the wires to free it from the module. Buy unplugging both the black and white connectors you will gain enough play in the harness to pull it just out from under the dash so you can work upright (instead of lying on your back).

Locate the blue/black wire toward the center of the white connector. That is the wire for the signal circuit that you need to leave open to disable the DRLs. YES, you CAN just cut the wire and tape the ends, but IF you wish to leave functionality for future owners or in case regulations change for the worse, you can either cut it and insert a toggle switch OR just remove the pin from the connector.

To remove the pin from the connector take a long, THIN pick (like an O-ring pick or terminal tool) and insert it into the back end (wire end) of the connector for the blue/black terminal. You must insert it on the underside of the pin (on the side with the small plastic tang, basically closer to the center of the connector, but if you are unsure look at the open terminals on the connector to see where the small locktab is). With the pin pressing the locktab down use a small tool (such as the small jaw of a pair of needle-nose pliers) to push on the terminal from the module side of the connector, this should push the terminal and wire completely free of the connector. It takes a little bit of force, but if it takes too much, then you don't have the locktab depressed. Once the terminal is free, simply tape up the ends securely, and tape or wire-tie it back to the harness out of the way. Plug the 2 connectors back in and you're good to go.

(NOTE, for some BAJA Turbo models it is possible that simply unplugging the white connector will do the trick, so try this first to determine whether or not you need to cut/remove the blue/black wire. To test, simple unplug the connector, turn the key to run, and check the headlights. If all lights work, you're good to go. If the headlights don't work with the white connector unplugged, you need to remove the blue/black wire and reconnect the white DRL connector.)

2004 Subaru Forester Disconnect resistor module on passenger side shock tower under the hood, or disconnect the DRL module between the glovebox and the passenger side kick panel inside the car. This may apply to multiple model years. Source: scoobymods forums

2002 SUBARU. Disconnect the ballast resistor (narrow silver box) behind the RF strut tower on the RS2.5 and near the cruise control on the 2002 WRX. Do it when the turbo is cool.

2002 Subaru Outback Limited. When the parking brake is on, it just opens a path to ground through the switch. This ground is transmitted back to the DRL module on pin #4 of the black 8 pin plug through a pink wire. I didn't want the parking brake dash light to stay on so I came up with another solution. I simply snipped the pink wire about 2 inches from the plug and connected a wire from the pink stub coming out of the DRL plug and ran it to ground and just taped off the other snipped pink wire coming from the parking brake switch and let it alone. Voila. No DRL and no parking brake dash light! [ed. not sure if this completely disables the BRAKE warning light for other braking system problems]

General (also applies to Saab 92-X). Remove the glovebox. If you can't figure out how to do it you probably don't have the skill required to complete this installation. It's just a bunch of phillips head screws.

Suzuki

1996 Sidekick Sport
In this car the DRL also controls the Brake, Charging/Alternator warning lights in the instrument panel and the Head lights in low and high beam, If You remove the DRL module, all the items described before will not function.

In the connector of the Daytime Running Light Unit (Is the black Module behind the ODBII Connector) Cut the next:
Pin 3 RED/BLU Daytime Running Light Resistor
Pin 9 ORG/WHT Daytime Running Light Bulb in Instrument Panel

CAUTION: Check the others cables before cutting it, they may have also silver or grey dots, just to know that is the right module.

You can est it by removing the connector, have wheels chocked, gear in neutral and brake lever released, engine on at idle. If the headlights are off, that is the Module!

If you wish, a Double Pole Single Throw switch can be wired for enabling or disabling the DRL, just wire the Pin 3 in one side of the switch and the Pin 9 in the other side. A switch that looks the same as others installed in the Sidekick (The switch for disabling or place in "valet" mode the Suzuki security system for example) is NKK Switch DPST type:CWSB21AA3F, in www.alliedelec.com is Stock #: 870-0186 for about USD $2.50.

Suzuki Vitara
1. Unplug the DRL module located under the dash to the right of the steeering column. It's a small silver box with a multi pin plug in its side, pretty obvious.
2. Lift the circular light sensor on the right side of the dash. Unplug it. Don't drop the plug into the dash. Retain it and be sure to secure it with a string attached to the sensor housing so it can be recovered if need be, and does not rattle
Easy as that!

Toyota/Lexus

Toyota Prius. Description and low-cost parts to put the DRL function on a switch, where it should be. Visit this site.

2006 Toyota Corolla CE (possibly other model years)
Pull fuse 27 in the fuse box under the dash near the brake pedal. No need to cut wires. QED.

2009 Toyota Corolla

Remove the glove box and locate the DRL module. It's a black unit mounted sideways with a wiring harness plugged in the side of it.
Unplug the harness from the module.
Cut the blue wire at pin 12. Leave at least 3 inches of wire sticking out of the connector in case you ever want to put it back.
Tape up the end of both blue wires.
Plug the connector back in.
Put the glove box back.

It is worth noting that this procedure will also disable the automatic headlights that come on when the sensor detects it is dark. If Toyota uses the same standards in other models such as the 2009 Camry or Avalon as they have for the Corolla, then this procedure should work for those models as well.

2006 Toyota Corolla
Pull fuse #31.

Lexus RX300 and RX350 (recent, but unspecified years). Info at clublexus forums.

2001-2005 Lexus IS300. On the passenger side of the engine compartment near the strut tower there is a vented black box labeled "Hot." Unplugging this box disables the DRLs with no other effects.

1999 LEXUS. I did reliably disable the DRL, by uncovering the DRL relay box, under left front kick panel/glove box. Using the wiring manual, identifying the pin/lead to the parking brake switch, cutting the wire and then grounding that pin.

Simply clicking the parking brake 1 notch, will also work, but activates the dash warning light for the brake.

1999 LEXUS. 30A fuses under hood right rear. Unfortunately this disables the high beams altogether.

TOYOTA. From the Toyota technical service bulletin EL011-00 Web site for specific models determine where the module is; either the DRL relay or the body ECU, connector number, pin #. Oct 6,2000.

-disconnect battery- Then remove the wire with pin attached and tape to the harness. (consider just cut and tape the wire) -check operation- [except the 2000 MY-Avalon, additionally you need to ground the wire at the module end of the cut wire] does anyone know if there is a DRL relay that can be "fixed".

TOYOTA TUNDRA Tundras with DRL's have two gray electrical connectors located between the battery and the inner fender liner. One of these connectors is fastened to the fender liner and has two black wires leading to another component also fastened to the fender. Disconnect this one and your daylight running lights are inoperative. If you change your mind (please don't) simply reconnect and you are back to stock. www.tundrasolutions.com .

2000-2006 Toyota Tundra and Sequoia A commercial solution that provides a DRL switch. It should have been that way from factory!

2003 Toyota Matrix (and Pontiac Vibe), Toyota Corolla
Great site with pictures!
Automatic headlight and DRL disable information. DRL module located above brake pedal. Remove module. Cut connecting legs to the board, pins 19 & 20, to kill auto lights. Kill DRL, cut legs 10 and 11, leave board side of 10 open, connect board end of 11 to ground (external switch or to leg 2), connect outgoing 10 and 11 to each other.
Method 2 Kill both DRL and auto lights, cut yellow wire (or leg 8 DRL relay), ground the module end of wire.

Volkswagen

VW Gen6 Golf/Jetta (possibly other models). You don't need VAGCOM reprogramming unless you have HID Xenon headlights. This worked perfectly in my '10 Jetta wagon. With car off, you turn turnsignal stalk as if making left turn. Then you pull the switch forward towards yourself as if flashing high beams. Hold in that position and turn on ignition. no need to start. After 10-15 seconds, it will ding and the DRL lights won't come on after that.

VW Mark IV Golf, GTI, and Jetta models Push in on the headlight switch and turn clockise. Carefully pull out the switch and disconnect the wiring harness. Cut a small piece of electrical tape and place it over the pin with the TFL marking just below it. Reattach the switch to the wiring harness and reinstall the switch in the dash.
This is completely reversable and does not require the removal of the #175 relay or any wiring modifications.

VW Jetta (2005+) and Golf/GTI (2006+). The DRLs can be disabled by the dealer via the CAN BUS (diagnostic port). If you're the programming type, see openobd (German).

VW Passat (2005.5+) and Golf/GTI (2006+). You can use VAG-COM, a third-party diagnostic tool for VW and Audi. Ross-Tech, makers of VAG-COM, provide instructions to disable DRLS. This applies to all cars based on the Mk 5 Golf electronics--Audi A3, 2005.5+ Passats, 2005+ Golfs and GTIs and new Jettas. The program is expensive ($299+), but a lot of people around the country who own VAG-COM will help you. You can find such people using the VAG-COM locator.

VW. Change $50 headlight switch, does not sound good to me.

2000 VW Jetta. but I believe it applies to all VW models of recent vintage. Pulling the 173 relay (behind the fuse panel, remove the bottom footwell molding with two screws and pop off the driver's side fuse molding, the relay is visible from underneath) works for disabling DRL but may have the unfortunate consequence of disabling the emergency brake warning light. A solution is (1) to remove the relay, noting its orientation to assist in putting it back; (2) remove the cover of the relay by inserting a small screwdriver into the two tabs on the underside of the relay; (3) placing a 1/4 inch square of electrical tape under the normally-closed relay point, which is on the top of the relay; (4) putting the cover back on the relay--it only goes on one way, there being small slots in the cover to accept the circuit board of the relay; (5) replacing the relay. The relay stays in the normally-closed position, which turns on the headlights. It opens when the emergency brake is pulled. So the tape separating the normally-closed points defeats the DRL. The headlight switch operates normally.

VW Passat (Newest info). On 2001.5 and newer Passats, some people report that pulling Relay 173 as suggested also darkens the parking brake indicator light on the instrument panel. While this may or may not be true, there is an easier method to disable DRLs.

Remove the light switch by turning it off, pressing it in, then turning clockwise and pulling out. Take the switch off the wiring connector to reveal a set of metal tabs.

On 1998-2001 Passats (B5), place a narrow strip of electrical tape over pin TFL to disable the DRL when the light switch is in the OFF position.

On 2001.5-2003 Passats (B5.5) tape over pin B to disable the DRL when the light switch is in the OFF position.

If you have installed the Euroswitch, you need to also tape over pin 56D to disable the DRL when the switch is in the PARKING LIGHTS position.

Information and illustrations can be found at clubb5 forums and some excellent photos by slashpub.

VW Passat (older info). Tilt the steering wheel down to facilitate access to the assembly incorporating the headlights switch and instruments illumination level adjuster. Insert a .9 mm (.035 inch) maximum thickness feeler gauge into the gap above the assembly and just to the left of the illumination adjustment wheel. Slide the blade to the right to push over a tab, thereby disengaging the spring loaded locking mechanism, grasp the headlights switch, and pull out the assembly. Pull out the wiring connector. Disable the wide upper outboard pin (labeled "TFL") with a small rectangle of electrical tape. License plate and running lights remain in DRL mode but may be disabled by pulling (10 amp) fuses 3, 7, and 8.

VW Passat UPDATE Currently the easiest way to disable the DRLs on the Passat B5.5 is to remove relay 173 which is on a panel buried up behind the dash. The light switch can be removed by turning it to the off position, pressing it in then rotating it to the right to disable the locks, it can now be pulled out. There is still a TFL tab but I don't know what it does, if it activates the DRLs then maybe the rest of the instructions will work.
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VW New Beetle. I also participate on a digest where New Beetle owners share information and experiences. Many of the people posting on this have been asking why their low beam headlights burn out so quickly (most have had at least one bulb burn out within the first year of ownership). This is not specific to the New Beetle. Take a look around and note how many cars you see driving around in the daylight with a headlight burned out. Could it be (gasp!) that DRLs are responsible for this? What about the safety aspects of this? Drivers of vehicles with only one light operable can be and are ticketed by the police for good reason -- it's dangerous to drive around with only one headlight. No only is light output reduced, but you stand a chance of losing your remaining light and being in total darkness. DRLs increase this chance by a factor of five when compared to non-DRL equipped vehicles. Rather than a safety feature, they are a safety exposure.

VW New Bug. In L.A. Web site. Relay located just below the headlight switch, remove dash panel, torx20. 98 Bug, relay #8 (second position, second row) unplug it (may be #173) the park brake lite will not function, therefore open the relay and insulate the "normally open" contacts. Replace relay.

VW golf (possibly the A# Jetta as well) Web site. An alternative to the expensive Euro switch thanks to Mike Potter of www.parts4vws.com Remove fuse box cover, bottom of dashboard. Unclip and swing the board out of the way and push the block up. Locate and remove relay #94 or #173 in location #15. Reassemble.

VW-GTI Web site. push light switch in, turn CW, pull out. Remove and tape wire #3.

2002 VW Golf, Jetta IV, Passat B5, and New Beetle Remove relay #173 from under the dash. Cut off #5 spade on relay and re-install. No need to remove it permanently or to pull it apart and tape anything up.

96-99 VW Jetta Lower the fuse panel under the dash. You will see a relay marked with the number 173. Coming out of the back of this relay is a plain yellow wire. Trace this wire and you will find a small connector. Unplug the connector and your DRLs are disabled.

94-95 VW Jetta The above method only works some of the time (due to wiring changes) You may attempt this method, however, the the number on the relay would be 94 instead of 173. The other method is to pull the headlight switch from the dash. You will see a pin on the back of the switch marked "TFL" (German abbreviation for DRL) Put a piece of electrical tape over the TFL pin and reinstall connector. You may also cut the wire that leads to the TFL pin. You may want to crimp on a set of connectors so that the DRLs can be re-activated if you ever want to sell the car.
More info at vwvortex forums

2000-2002 VW Eurovan. Remove 4 screws holding panel in place just above cup holder console on dash. Behind that you will find several relays. Yank the one labeled with the big 94. This will essentially make your headlight switch an on/off switch only. Contact parts4vws for a euroswitch which will allow you to use parking lights alone, or headlights. hey, it works just like they did in the good old days!

Volvo

Take off the fusebox cover (4-no. T25 screws). It is located under the bonnet right by the RH side of the windscreen.
Pull out the headlamp relay. It's the largest one, coloured green, that fits into a double socket.
Prise off the relay cover. This can be awkward since it is a snap- fit with four tongues of plastic that must all be disengaged simultaneously.
Find the pin marked '56b'. It's a 1/4" tab, and is connected via two loops of thick wire to other pins marked '56bL' and '56bR'. (These other pins lead to the headlamp dipped filaments, and the loops of wire are part of the 'lamp fail' warning system - don't damage them in what you are about to do.)
Carefully lever up the connection to pin 56b and cut it.
Push the severed connection back towards the base of the relay and move it to one side so the connection to pin 56b remains broken. It could then be reinstated at a later date if required.
Refit the relay cover, plug in the relay (it will only go in one way round), and refit the fusebox cover.

2000 Volvo V40 Turn the ignition on. Turn the headlight switch to sidelights, pull and hold the Main Beam stalk. Turn the headlight switch to 0, release the Main Beam. If you do want to leave your car parked with the sidelights/parking lights on, and doors locked, reverse the process

Other Volvo This works on some models. Screwdriver hole adjacent to headlight switch. SAAB and Volvo are only ones that put info in owners manual.

If a vehicle is not listed, first consult the owner's manual and search for a DRL fuse or relay. Next try a shop manual. Again, we repeat our disclaimer:

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The Central Junction Box is located under left side of instrument panel. Ford.

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Electrical problem 2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 100000 miles

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Nothing else is on that fuse..change the relay in spot 31, that's the PCM power relay.

Ok. Replaced the relay and nothing different. Fuse blows instantly. It doesn't if the relay is out. Any other ideas?

The problem is I can't find the pcm module. Can you give me some guidance as to where it's located?

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2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 100000 miles