- Solid-Axle Swapper Buyer's Guide, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- 88-98 SAS/SFA kit to avoid, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- sas minimum lift, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- 88-98 Chevy sas kit, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- another possible solid axle swap thread., 88-98 chevy sas kit
- Navbar Menu, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- another possible solid axle swap thread., 88-98 chevy sas kit
- Footer, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- 95 2 Door Tahoe SAS project, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- 95 2 Door Tahoe SAS project
- Pics 001
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- SAS Pics 002
- SAS Pics.
- All Done
- Products, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- Suzuki Samurai HD Spring Pads, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- $29.00/Pair, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- 98-Up Chevy SAS kit for 99-04 Ford Super Duty Axles, 88-98 chevy sas kit
- $ 359.00
Solid-Axle Swapper Buyer's Guide, 88-98 chevy sas kit
Photographers: 4WOR StaffThe Manufacturer
Last year we proved with our Ultimate F-150 that a well-built IFS (independent front suspension) rig can perform great in even the most extreme off-road conditions. We also discovered that building an IFS frontend to survive extreme wheeling isn’t cheap. The fact is that most modern 4x4 trucks are equipped with IFS. And while we’re always up for pushing the limit with cutting edge independent equipment, sometimes reverting back to the tried-and-true formula of a solid front axle is simply the way to go.
Unlike expensive IFS frontends that have a lots of moving parts, solid axles such as a Dana 30, 44, and 60 only have a few heavy-duty key components. Another advantage of the modern-day SAS (solid-axle swap) is that many of the aftermarket conversions are designed with the daily driver and weekend wheeler in mind. Sure, there are still plenty of kits to transform your late-model pickup into a mud-romping monster that can clear 54-inch cleats, but for every monster truck mini kit there is also a well-tuned SAS designed with excellent handling and performance to accommodate both your on- and off-highway needs.
Since we know that fabricating your own solid-axle conversion is no easy task, we’ve put together a list of some of the industry’s top solid-axle kit manufacturers. Some of these kits are entirely bolt-on, while others require a bit of welding and fabrication. Either way, starting with a basic template can save you a ton of time, money, and aggregation on your solid-axle project.
Direct Swaps
For: ’88-’08 Chevy fullsize truck, ’82-’04 S-10
Solid Parts: Complete leaf spring and coilover conversion kits. Most leaf kits are entirely bolt-on. Kits include all necessary hardware, axle mounts, and brackets. Multiple shock hoop and spring pad width options available.
Source: Off-Road Direct, 801.208.2633, www.offroaddirect.com
GM Unlimited
For: ’88-’10 GM fullsize truck (2WD and 4WD)
Solid Parts: Complete leaf spring and coilover conversion kits. Multiple lift size options. Steering components as well as complete axlehousings are available.
Source: Off Road Unlimited, 888.365.0244, www.offroadunlimited.com
Geared-Up Taco
For: ’951⁄2-’04 Toyota Tacoma
Solid Parts: Complete leaf spring conversion kits with A, B, and C levels. C kits include a new steering gearbox, complete axlehousing, brakes, springs, all necessary mounts, and hardware.
Source: Trail-Gear Inc. 877.4X4.TOYS, www.trail-gear.com
Pure Nissan
For: ’98-’04 Nissan Frontier, ’00-’04 Xterra, ’861⁄2-’97 Hardbody, ’87-’95 Pathfinder
Solid Parts: Complete coilover and leaf spring systems. Most kits are designed for use with a ’80-’85 Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 front axle. Kit prices, complexity, and options vary among the different applications.
Source: Calmini, 800.345.3305, www.purenissan.com
Toy Pros
For: ’86-’95 Toyota pickup and 4Runner, ’95-’04 Tacoma
Solid Parts: Complete leaf spring kits (’86-’95) and coilover conversions (’95-’04). Welding, cutting, and grinding are required. Tacoma kits can be optioned with a complete front axle and steering components.
Source: All-Pro Off-Road, 951.658.7077, www.allprooffroad.com
Solid Creations
For: ’94-’03 Chevy S-10 truck and Blazer
Solid Parts: Complete multilink front conversion. 6- and 8-inch kit options. Includes new crossmember with integrated link mounts, coil bucket, and shock mounts; coils; shocks; pitman arm; brake lines; and track bar mounting bracket. Designed to be used with a ’97-’06 Jeep Wrangler Dana 30 or Dana 44 front axle. Cutting and welding required.
Source: Diversified Creations, 810.227. 4777, www.diversifiedcreations.com
Chevy Blitz
For: ’67-’87 Chevy fullsize truck
Solid Parts: Complete 12- to 16-inch travel coilover conversions. Includes shocks, bumpstops, 4130 radius arms, heims, and steering linkage along with new brake lines, limit straps, and necessary hardware. Custom tubular engine cage (based on application). Some fabrication required.
Source: Blitzkrieg Motorsports, 714.524 .1099. www.blitzkriegoffroad.com
Full Size Fab
For: ’88-’98 Chevy fullsize truck
Solid Parts: Complete bolt-on leaf spring conversion. Multiple height, component, and steering options. Works with GM and Ford Dana 44 and 60 axles. Ships raw or powdercoated. Made in the USA.
Source: Fabworx, 707.578.9679, www.fabworxoffroad.com
Independent ZU
For: ’87-’91 Isuzu Trooper, ’88-’95 Rodeo, Amigo, and pickup
Solid Parts: Complete and partial kits. Stage II kit includes steering, leaf springs, brake lines, and shocks. Welding and fabrication required.
Source: Independent 4X, 804.550.0480, www.independent4x.com
S-10 IFS Eliminator
For: ’94-’03 Chevy S-10 truck and Blazer
Solid Parts: Complete and partial kits. Designed for leaf springs. Intended for use with either a Dana 44 front axle from either a Jeep Wagoneer or a 3⁄4-ton Ford without radius arm castings. Welding required.
Source: Metalshop Motorsports, 719.332.1295, www.metalshopmotorsports.com
Sky’s the Limit
For: ’88-’08 Chevy fullsize truck, ’86-’95 Toyota pickup and 4Runner
Solid Parts: Complete and partial kits. Each system is designed for use of leaf springs. Multiple shock and width options.
Source: Sky Mfg. 541.736.3743, www.sky-manufacturing.com
3⁄4-Ton Performance
For: ’00-’10 Chevy 3⁄4-ton truck
Solid Parts: Complete multilink front conversion. Designed for use with 10-inch travel coilovers. Created around the ’03-present AAM Dodge 3⁄4- and 1-ton front axle. Steering systems available. Major cutting and welding required.
Source: Pure Performance, 518.270.9822, www.pure-performance.biz
XXX Fun
For: ’88-’10 Chevy full-size truck
Solid Parts: Complete coilover conversion kits, each 4-link kit can be optioned for either a 7-10-inch or 10-13-inch lift, uses a ’05 and newer F-350 Dana 60 front axle
Source: XXX Traction, 831.899.2144, www.xxxtraction.com
Offroad Design
For: ’88-’98 Chevy fullsize truck
Solid Parts: Complete kit for both 2WD and 4WD trucks. It is 100 percent bolt-on and uses leaf springs from a ’73-’87 Chevy truck. Steering and axle options available. Minor drilling required.
Source: Offroad Design, 970.945.7777, www.offroaddesign.com
Evo Hummer
For: ’99-’08 GM 1500 pickup, ’05-’10 Hummer H3 and H3T
Solid Parts: Complete and partial three- and four-link conversions. Each kit uses coilovers. Multiple suspension travel, height, and control options available. Weld-on.
Source: Evo Mfg. 714.879.8913, www.evomfg.com
On the Range
For: ’86-’95 Toyota pickup and 4Runner, ’95-’04 Tacoma
Solid Parts: Complete and partial kits. Weld-on leaf spring mounts and brackets. Intended to work with a ’79-’85 Toyota front axle. Steering and brake options available.
Source: Front Range Off-Road Fabrication, www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com
TTB Graveyard
For: ’80-’96 Ford Bronco and pickup
Solid Parts: Partial and complete kits, or all parts and components can be purchased separately. Steering and front axlehousings available. Designed for use with a ’78-’79 Ford high-pinion Dana 44 front axle.
Source: Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard, 248. 437.5060, www.broncograveyard.com
88-98 SAS/SFA kit to avoid, 88-98 chevy sas kit
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sas minimum lift, 88-98 chevy sas kit
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88-98 Chevy sas kit, 88-98 chevy sas kit
Some high points:
Bolt pattern is symmetrical on the rear hangers but the bushing is offset. This allows you to flop them one side to the other to tweak your shackle angle a little bit if need be, even if you have already drilled your holes.
To help with locating the brackets, there are sight holes on the main bracket which are positioned center of bushing. This way, when you pull your tape and make your marks on the frame you can measure to bushing center and place the bracket exactly where you want it.
All 1/4" steel construction. Includes all the hardware to bolt it to the frame and the crosstied shackles and polys.
Rear brackets catch two frame sides and the front catches three. Built to the gills in true DIY4X form.
DIY4X 2012-10-10 05:42
Thanks for all the orders.
DIY4X 2012-10-18 19:33
Thanks for supporting a new product.
DIY4X 2013-08-19 05:48
Seein' a uptick in sales on our sas kit. Thanks guys.
DIY4X 2015-01-30 06:02
Plenty of SAS kits going out the door these days. Thanks for the orders.
DIY4X 2015-02-26 06:25
SAS kits selling like wildfire! Thank you.
DIY4X 2015-03-21 06:47
More out the door everyday.
Hope to be bolting one on our R and D truck very soon. Along with a lot of other new products.
DIY4X 2015-08-10 06:24
We're just about done designing a sas kit for the 2000's Chevy's.
Flyintaco138 2015-08-16 19:32
When do you think the newer chevy sas kits will be ready?
DIY4X 2015-08-17 06:22
Originally Posted by Flyintaco138
When do you think the newer chevy sas kits will be ready? Predicting within the next two weeks.
Sparg93 21 Oct 2012
Credit to Maddog411 for this one.
A lot of people are interested in converting their 88+ year chevys from Independent Front Suspension (IFS) to a Solid Front Axle. This is called a Solid Axle Swap (SAS). Some of the advantages of doing a SAS are better flex, strengh, and reliability, which means fewer broken parts with larger tires, and it is easier to get larger lifts. You an convert to either a coil sprung or leaf sprung suspension. The leaf sprung conversion is easier.
I have done a leaf sprung SAS on an 88-98 truck, usually called Old Body Style (OBS), so I will discuss that.
You will obviously need a solid axle for the front. The best axle to get is a dana 60 from a 78-79 Ford F350 or F250 with Snowplow package. This is a strong 1-ton axle with a drivers side pumpkin, so you can keep your factory transfer case unless it is autotrac. This axle also has kingpins which are stronger than balljoints. You can also use a dana 60 out of and 86+ ford F350, but the spring perches are wider and this may cause your tires to rub the leaf springs. You can get a dana 60 out of a Chevy 73-91 Chevy 1-ton truck, although it is passenger side pumpkin and you will have to change your transfer case. Other axles that will work are Ford 78-79 Dana 44&';s, which you can get from an F250 or CrewCab F150 or Chevy dana 44/10 bolt from 73-91 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton truck, although they are all more prone to breakage.
One of the hardest things about a leaf sprung SAS is finding something to use for brackets to hold the leaf springs. You can fabricate those out of parts from an older Solid Axle Chevy, or you can buy a bolt on kit that a company sells. I used the kit from Offroadumlited (ORU), http://www.offroadunlimited.com. They sell 4 different kits. When ordering, keep in mind that Ford 78-79 and all Chevy axles are 32.5 spring pad width, and Ford 86+ is 36.5 spring pad width, so you must order the kit that matches your truck and the front axle you plan to run. ORU sells kits for 88-98 2wds and 4wds, and 01+ 2500&';s. Another company that sells bolt on kits is Fabritech, http://www.setstr8.com. I don&';t have experience with their kits, although I have heard good things. They do sell kits for New Body Style (NBS) GM 1500&';s, I believe for 2000+.
The ORU kits include front and rear brackets and shackles to hold the leaf springs, ubolt plates and weld on shock tabs for the axles, bump stops and longer brake lines. You will need 47" long leaf springs that fit the front of an 88-91 blazer or suburban. Leafs that fit a 73-87 Chevy will work, but you will have to buy bushings for an 88-91 since they are designed for a larger bolt on the shackle side. You can buy these springs in lift heights from 2"-12" and you could have larger ones custom made. The ORU brackets add 3" of lift by themselves so you could have up to 15"+ of suspension lift if you wanted.
Beside the axle, brackets or ORU/Fabritech kit, and leaf springs, you will need new shocks, possibly a sway bar, and crossover steering. You may also need a new front drive shaft and transfer case.
The crossover steering that is in the TOTM in the forum is basically the same as what you will use in SAS. When doing a SAS though, you can use your factory steering box. Your stock pitman arm gets replaced by a saginaw pitman arm with a hole in the end instead of a balljoint. I got my pitman arm from Offroaddesign (ORD), http://www.offroaddesign.com. You will also need a steering arm for the passenger side of your axle, and a custom length drag link to connect the 2. ORD sells all this, as well as ORU. I got my drag link and steering arm from Sky Manufacturing, http://www.sky-manufacturing.com .
Most likely you will need new wheels and tires after you do your SAS. One of the reasons for doing it is normally for strength, which in turn lets you run bigger meats. Most of the axles mentioned above are also 8-lug so you will need wheels to match.
As far as costs, they can vary greatly depending on whether you use a dana44 or a dana 60, what kind of steering you use, if you buy brand new wheels and tires or used ones, if you regear and get lockers, and if you use a kit or make your own brackets. I have about 2500 not including tools and wheels and tires in mine. Tools and other little parts can add on quite a bit, so budget accordingly. I have seen some solid axle swaps cost as mush as 10k.
I know this doesn&';t cover everything, but hopefully its the basics. Anyone please feel free to add any info you have to this.
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DonYukon 21 Oct 2012
Good write up credit the writer
another possible solid axle swap thread., 88-98 chevy sas kit
Navbar Menu, 88-98 chevy sas kit
another possible solid axle swap thread., 88-98 chevy sas kit
hey guys i just wanted to get a few opinions on what i should do, ive wheeled for a couple years now and personally love trail riding way better than boonin. ive got a couple questions for you guys thatve done a SAS on your truck. people argue about which is better all the time, the way i see it they both have their pros n cons but im leaning more towards the solid axle even though ifs has been pretty good to me except for torn up hubs tie rods sway links and all.
my buddies have been trying to convince me to SAS my truck. i can get a d44 for 150 bucks or get a d60 ford hp off my friend for 250 complete with brakes and everything, our buddy keith whos a master fabricator said he can fab up everything i need and to get the axles and springs and hell do the rest? im solid axle retarded but i think i need more than that lol, i dont see how hed fab up the track bars and all that ****, he said the ORD kit would be a waste of money and i can get away with this SAS cheaper than my 6in ifs? is it me or does this sound way to good to be true? axles i can get cheap and in good shape, and i also have the opportunity to buy a 14FF for 100 bucks, which either way since im ocd about things theyd be completely freshened up and have a front ratcheting locker so im sure thatll be a good amount of money. i can get 35s on rim (8lug) for 200 bucks off of another friend. do you guys think i could get away with this decently cheap? like under 2k? and if ya dont mind me askin what else do i need to buy other than the axles, springs and all that? i know they can fab up all the mounts/brackets and all that stuff for sure.
and one last question. if i go d44 to keep my 6 lug, i know with a SAS swap in general on stock springs its an instant 4 or 5in of lift i take it i can fit 35s on there without a problem since im stuffing 33s on no lift right now lol, but how much would i have to jack up the *** end to make it level? would a 6in block work or would it be prerunner status
thanks guys and sorry if this is a novel
almost forgot if i do go with the 14ff what do i do with my factory driveshaft to make those two work since they have different yolks? crossjoint or is there any 14bolt yolk thatll meet up with the stock driveshaft? as for the front ill pay to get it extended after the swap since a shop here is pretty cheap with balancing and lengthining, he quoted me 60 bucks
What type of T-case? Manual shift or electronic with auto trac? If you have a manual T-case you are already in good shape (hopefully). This assuming that you already have a fixed yoke for the front driveshaft versus the slip yoke the autotrac has (NP246). If you have auto trac, then you would first need to obtain a NP241 T-case.
From there, leafs or a link setup? Leafs would be cheaper. I have done both to the same truck. Sky-manufacturing is also a good company to work with. That is who made my cross over steering setup. Plus you can use the 88-98 chevy SAS kit. Just have to measure the inside frame width by the front cab mount. Either 36 or 38'' (+/- .xxx'') That is the measurement you would need to have if you ordered with them.
For the leafs, use rear leafs off of a 73-87 chevy/gmc 1500. Get heavy duty ones though, stock duties will sag too much. A stock rear leaf is 4'' of lift and the SKY kit is 6''. So there is 10'' of lift right there.
As for the 14bolt. yes, a cross joint should be your cure. That swap is very common so i am sure you will be able to get better info.
I went D60 rear, D44 front from a 75 F-250, so my shafts were all made by Carolina Driveshaft. Good service and quick.
IMO if your gonna do a sas link that bitch up..I cant stand it when guys do leafs in the front.
Lookin forward to seeing your build
haha andrew i might do links man but idk, my buddy who gonna be doin this with me (master fabricator) reccomended the springs for my price range, not to mention the whole fact it could have a less chance of death wobble which my idiotic *** needs since i like to do 120+ in a truck lol, as for the links. its a little outta my price range but well see in time. and i look forward to it also lol, not to mention itll be a friday after work through sunday night deadline lol, were gonna be bustin our ***** gettin this done so i can take it to work
n tanz sounds like a sick project man, mind postin some pics? as for the crossover and the track bar my buddy keith will be fabbing mine up. his work, its impresses me every time, nobody around here buys links or any of that stuff anymore, they just call him to make them? so it kinda works out lol, hell be doing all the mounts brackets and all that fun stuff, and our other friend eric will be doing the regearing of the axles and installation of the locker. as for the height i want im undecided, stock springs supposedly get me 4in of lift. all i want to do for now is run 488s with 35s and have some room to flex, i do want to eventully run 37s or mabey 38s but i dont know what size springs id need. in reality id love to be on 40s but for my needs right now and well still daily driving it i think the 488s n 35s will be just fine. mabey 37s but it just all depends
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95 2 Door Tahoe SAS project, 88-98 chevy sas kit
95 2 Door Tahoe SAS project
Well since you guys asked for more pics of the SAS on the Tahoe and specs, I figured I would start a new thread to keep the "fullsize rigs" post clean. So, where to start. I will list what is has and then post the pics. Start:
-95 Tahoe
-350 TBI motor with power bowl, 1 inch spacer, stock rest
-Offroad Design Motor Mounts for 88-98 trucks
-Hooker Headers
-Full mandrel bent 2 1/2 exhaust with dual cats, dual magnaflows, and a H-Pipe behind T-case
-NV4500 swap with LUK pro-gold clutch
-NP241 with JB conversions Slip yoke eliminator and driveline e-brake from highangledriveline
-Front and rear 1350 CV driveshafts with 1350 at the axles
-Rear 14 bolt full float with 4.56s and open, Offroad Design Disk Brake kit
-Offroad Design traction bar for a 73-91 K5 blazer, perfect fit to factory crossmember
-Front 78 Dana 44 High Pinion with 4.56s and open, hybrid of ford centers, early gm knuckles (flat tops) and late model gm outers (internal hubs)
-Trail ready HD17 beadlocks, 17X8.5 with 4.5" backspacing and have not leaked a bit for almost a year now
-37x12.50 BFG Mud Terrains KM2s
-LightForce 170 Strikers wired in with the OEM harness
-ARB bullbar with M12000
-1 inch body lift from Offroad Design
-Temporary rear bumper made of 2X6 tube
-Line-X Bedliner on Rocker panels
-Interior is sound deadened with dynamat, dynafoam
-Carpet was replaced with Vinyl Flooring
-Medium Duty GM truck handles
-Factory New Bucket seats and console installed instead of 60/40
-20% Tint to match Factory rear glass
-Dual Optima Yellow Tops in Factory trays with 2 gauge wire and military terminals
-Updated interior lights to 96-99 domes
-Later Model Steering Wheel
-10 Inch Subwoofer hidden behind interior panel (Sorry need some to sleep to or wake up)
-Removed ABS and AIR bag SRS systems
-New APEUSA 190L/HR fuel pump
-Offroad Design brake lines all around
-SUSPENSION (what everyone wants to know)
-Rear is stock Springs with Offroad Design Shacle Flip and Offroad Design zero rate to center in wheel well
-Rear shocks are 2 bilstein 7100 short body 14" travel with 275/80 valving
-Rear Polyurethane bumpstomps
-Front is Offroad Unlimited SAS hangers and Spring plates
-Offroad Design custom springs through Alcan for the Tahoes weight and lengths (266 lb/in at 48.5" long with 1 inch forward axle mount)
-1 1/4 Sway bar from Stock Car Products
-4 Bilstein 7100 short body 14" travel with 170/60 valving
-Polyurethane bumpstops
-Steering is Stock box with Offroad Design Pitman arm, Drag Link, and steering arm for Dana 44
-All bushings and mounts are polyurethane
Stephen at Offroad Design knows what I did and has the recipe for my springs, if any of you want info on my swap you can write me or call him. He is a great guy looking to get away from just hardcore rock crawling and into this area. He started on his blazer looking to just camp and now it is a buggy. He is looking for marketable ideas in the expo rig area.
Last edited by wrench-head; 01-22-2010 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Update info
Pics 001
As Purchased. Short lived.
SAS Pics 001
And now the SAS.
SAS Pics 002
SAS Pics.
All Done
More for you guys.
Products, 88-98 chevy sas kit
Suzuki Samurai HD Spring Pads, 88-98 chevy sas kit
$29.00/Pair, 88-98 chevy sas kit
98-Up Chevy SAS kit for 99-04 Ford Super Duty Axles, 88-98 chevy sas kit
$ 359.00
Part Number: CHEVY-SAS-SD
Sky's new Chevy SAS ( Solid Axle Swap ) kit for installing 99-04 Ford Dana 50-60 solid axles.
Kit will fit newer Chevy trucks, 98-up with a inner frame rail at shackle mount point dimension of 38.5 inch
Super Duty Ford Axle spring perch width of 37.5 inch's.
Kit is designed around 47" Chevy 73-87 front leaf springs with a width at the bushing of 3.625. We have had some customers who have successfully fit 99-04 Super duty springs by moving the SAS hangers forward and rearward on the frame.
Kit is weld on, will require drilling the frame for the tube needed going through to hang shackles. This will require basic geometry skills to square the hanger to the frame and shackles.
Kit will add 6" of lift to the springs use. A stock spring will give you 6" of lift, and so on.
Ford super duty axle will require either swapping the rear 10.5 Sterling axle in place of existing axle or changing bolt pattern on the front axle from metric pattern to 8x6.5.
Laser cut and CNC formed PnO steel, made in the USA!
Front leaf hanger is 3/16th steel with a 3/16th skeleton brace, making it effectively 1/2" plate strength. Shackles are 3/8ths plate. Frame tube is 2.25x.250 wall DOM. Kit uses a machined UHMW bushing and 3/4" bolt for the frame tube for long life, and less bushing sway.
This is a DIY kit, the simple way to install it is to bolt the kit, to the leaf springs, to the axle. Make sure you have them fairly square, then set axle under the truck. Determine where you want the tire to sit in the fender well and tack front hanger is place. Next set frame tubes directly under the frame with shackle vertical. The frame tube should be positioned through the frame at this vertical point, with 1"-1 1/2" of space from bottom of frame to the bottom of the tube. Tack tubes in place and set weight on the axle to double check position. Shackle should sit slightly rear ward, 15* and axle should be where it is desired. If change need made to position, now is the time.
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sc4808 13 Apr 2010
I don&';t know how many Hardcore OffRoad guys (or girls) that we have on here, but I just thought I would pass along some info.
I have been looking to do a Solid Axle Swap on a couple of my trucks, the problem has always been that it is very easy to do if you go with Leaf springs in the front, there are several companys that offer these kits that are fairly inexpensive and easy to install, of course you have to provide your on Axle and springs, but all of the fabrication is done for you. I however would prefer to go with a CoilOver 4 link suspension instead, both for Ride quality and Articulation, but no one makes a 4 link coilover SAS kit for the 1/2 ton GMT800&';s, OffRoad Unlimited, Pure Performance and Offroad Direct make such a kit for the HD&';s but not the 1/2 tons.
OffRoad Direct has just came to market with a new 4 Link Coilover kit for the 88-98 1/2 ton trucks, but have no plans to create a kit for the GMT800&';s. With that being said, I feel like the 88-98 kit will be a good starting point for the GMT800 platform with mostly Crossmember fabrication needed as the main difference.
I am still a little ways out on this project, seeing that I am working out of state right now, it will be late summer before I get to start on it. Plenty of time to pull everything together.
I will probably use a Dana 60 under the front, but I have not ruled out a rear 14 bolt converted to a steering axle, this was on Extreme 4x4 a couple of months ago and looked pretty good, that would give me 14 bolts front and rear, that would be cool.
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Dooner 13 Apr 2010
Which vehicle(s) would you be doing this swap on? That&';s a big job to do for the average shade tree mechanic (assuming you are one). Keep us posted if you go through with it, lots of pics too!
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jro909 13 Apr 2010
this intirgues me, nothing i&';d ever do but its always a good time to watch a chevy/gmc put on offroad steroids
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USMdude 13 Apr 2010
I don&';t know how many Hardcore OffRoad guys (or girls) that we have on here, but I just thought I would pass along some info.
I have been looking to do a Solid Axle Swap on a couple of my trucks, the problem has always been that it is very easy to do if you go with Leaf springs in the front, there are several companys that offer these kits that are fairly inexpensive and easy to install, of course you have to provide your on Axle and springs, but all of the fabrication is done for you. I however would prefer to go with a CoilOver 4 link suspension instead, both for Ride quality and Articulation, but no one makes a 4 link coilover SAS kit for the 1/2 ton GMT800&';s, OffRoad Unlimited, Pure Performance and Offroad Direct make such a kit for the HD&';s but not the 1/2 tons.
OffRoad Direct has just came to market with a new 4 Link Coilover kit for the 88-98 1/2 ton trucks, but have no plans to create a kit for the GMT800&';s. With that being said, I feel like the 88-98 kit will be a good starting point for the GMT800 platform with mostly Crossmember fabrication needed as the main difference.
I am still a little ways out on this project, seeing that I am working out of state right now, it will be late summer before I get to start on it. Plenty of time to pull everything together.
I will probably use a Dana 60 under the front, but I have not ruled out a rear 14 bolt converted to a steering axle, this was on Extreme 4x4 a couple of months ago and looked pretty good, that would give me 14 bolts front and rear, that would be cool.
I run 4 links front and rear on my jeep. nothing beats them for side to side axle height travel. Homemade thou. DOM tube and QS Components HIEM joints. This is the HIEM joints I used. I have about 6 or so years on the 4link system. NO PROBLEMS as of yet with them. or any piece of the system I made.
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sc4808 14 Apr 2010
Which vehicle(s) would you be doing this swap on? That&';s a big job to do for the average shade tree mechanic (assuming you are one). Keep us posted if you go through with it, lots of pics too!
The first one that I will be doing it to will be the 1995 K1500, it presently has a 6" IFS lift and has had as big as 38&';s on it at one time, right now I have it on 35&';s due to the fact that thats about as big as the front end can stand. The reason I will do this one first is due to the fact that OffRoad Direct offers a 4 link kit for those trucks.
Next in the order would be the 03 Sierra, that one will require some fabrication. If it goes well, I will more than likely do the 06.
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sc4808 14 Apr 2010
I don&';t know how many Hardcore OffRoad guys (or girls) that we have on here, but I just thought I would pass along some info.
I have been looking to do a Solid Axle Swap on a couple of my trucks, the problem has always been that it is very easy to do if you go with Leaf springs in the front, there are several companys that offer these kits that are fairly inexpensive and easy to install, of course you have to provide your on Axle and springs, but all of the fabrication is done for you. I however would prefer to go with a CoilOver 4 link suspension instead, both for Ride quality and Articulation, but no one makes a 4 link coilover SAS kit for the 1/2 ton GMT800&';s, OffRoad Unlimited, Pure Performance and Offroad Direct make such a kit for the HD&';s but not the 1/2 tons.
OffRoad Direct has just came to market with a new 4 Link Coilover kit for the 88-98 1/2 ton trucks, but have no plans to create a kit for the GMT800&';s. With that being said, I feel like the 88-98 kit will be a good starting point for the GMT800 platform with mostly Crossmember fabrication needed as the main difference.
I am still a little ways out on this project, seeing that I am working out of state right now, it will be late summer before I get to start on it. Plenty of time to pull everything together.
I will probably use a Dana 60 under the front, but I have not ruled out a rear 14 bolt converted to a steering axle, this was on Extreme 4x4 a couple of months ago and looked pretty good, that would give me 14 bolts front and rear, that would be cool.
I run 4 links front and rear on my jeep. nothing beats them for side to side axle height travel. Homemade thou. DOM tube and QS Components HIEM joints. This is the HIEM joints I used. I have about 6 or so years on the 4link system. NO PROBLEMS as of yet with them. or any piece of the system I made.
I have been a Jeep guy for most of my life, my first one was a CJ5 that I drove during my high school years, I have just in the last 10 years or so started the move to Fullsize rigs, most of my OffRoad driving is Mud due to where I live, I do love trail riding and am looking forward to doing some wheeling while I am in Washington State working, also I will be stopping by Moab on the way home. I have been avoiding the SAS because I don&';t want Leaf Springs up front, but a 4 link I can live with.
November 1st, 2007, 07:50 PM
ok guys bare with me here. i know this is a beaten horse (well sas is). as some of you saw earlier i am looking into sasing my dads old pickup (90' chevy silverado k1500). here is what i am thinking. i am looking for any input (good or bad) with my choices in parts and such.
FRONT
Mounting: Sky's Chevy/GMC 88-97 Solid Axle Conversion Hanger kit (Part # Chevy-SAS-001 Price $350)
Axle: Dana 60 (78'/79' F-350's, F-250's
Springs: 47" Leaf (OEM 77-87 K5 Blazer/K1500 front springs)
Gears.
REAR
Axle: Dana 60 or14 Bolt
Springs: 63" 2"lift leafs with a 4" shackle flip
Gears.
STEERING:Sky's Dana 60 Chevy Crossover Steering Kit (Part # Chevy-DanaFSK-D60 $675) (i would like a cheaper alternative but do not know where to begin. )
thanks a bunch guys.
ben
November 1st, 2007, 09:07 PM
If all you're running is 35's, a D44 will be much cheaper/easier to come by.
November 1st, 2007, 10:23 PM
well i decided a d60 because if i wanna later go bigger on my tires i dont have to worry about popping the axles and such as with a 44 i was told any thing over 35 is putting waayyyy to much stress on the shafts.
November 1st, 2007, 10:29 PM
well i decided a d60 because if i wanna later go bigger on my tires i dont have to worry about popping the axles and such as with a 44 i was told any thing over 35 is putting waayyyy to much stress on the shafts.
If you are going to wheel it, I would agree. A 44 under a lightweight Jeep with 35's is one thing. A 44 under a full sized truck on 35's is another.
November 1st, 2007, 10:35 PM
unless any one can think of a better (cheaper) axle that is driver drop?
November 1st, 2007, 10:37 PM
If you are going to wheel it, I would agree. A 44 under a lightweight Jeep with 35's is one thing. A 44 under a full sized truck on 35's is another.
thumbsup: Yup. If idea of changing ball joints & wheel bearings yearly on a Dana 44 is fun, then run it on +35" tires on a fullsize rig. I'm at the point with my waggy, I need to step up to a Ford D60 or step down to a smaller tire. It sucks when you realize that replacing ball joints need to be a yearly serviceable item like changing diff fluid.
I'm no chevy expert, only have owned a '72 K5 and a '78 K10 but I thought they can do the rear shackle flip much like Ford's do and gain like 4" of lift, if so that may be a fairly easy solution for your rear.
EDIT: Ford Dana 60 is your only axle option AFAIK. Unless you go to a psgr drop T-case.
November 1st, 2007, 10:51 PM
i suck at prefixs so AFAIK means? and thats what i thought. now to figure out what years/models the D60 was in the front of them fords.
i can do a shackle flip and gain lift but i did not know how much lift was there. thanks for the info.
also any one have some input on gears? this is gonna be a street driven truck still (to and from trails weekend driver) i have no idea what gears to run or how the numbers affect my power to wheel stuff and the like. (basicly i have no idea)
November 2nd, 2007, 09:55 AM
Ford used D60's in 78'/79' F-350's and some F-250's
The 78'/79's fit the best in Chevys. I'm looking for one as well for my Chevy.
November 2nd, 2007, 10:05 AM
Please don't take this as an insult because it's not intended to be, but judging from the nature of your questions are you sure that you're up to taking this project on? You seem to have a lot of unknowns that really are base necessities, let alone some of the specifics with the vehicle you're working with. Sounds like you really need to do some more research before looking for parts. I don't mean research like starting a thread either. I'm sure that there are things you won't think to ask about.
November 2nd, 2007, 11:33 AM
Asking how to do this isn't research? People that have done this should be able to help. Trying something and working through the problems is the best way to learn and it'll probably turn out different than it looks on paper anyways. I haven't done an SAS so I don't have any useful information, I was just insulted by CSP's evenmore useless post.
November 2nd, 2007, 11:33 AM
It can be, but is just scratching the surface of the info that's out there already. Sorry but there's only so much information you can get from short answers to the questions you do think of.
Fishfood if you were insulted (not about you to begin with) you obviously don't take to constructive criticism very well. It was food for thought, not a "you should do this" type of post. shrug: Besides, how much is anyone giving up for whatever info they get from these forums? Take what you like and leave the rest.
November 2nd, 2007, 05:51 PM
i appreciate all your input. i realise that i dont have the required knowledge to do this by my self. i have friends who can help me and what not. i am not looking to aquire parts just yet (well kinda am but what ever) i am more looking for a base line of my budget. i dont even have a for sure place to begin this sas. how ever i also a year ago did not have the skill or knowlege to swap an auto tranny to a manual on a jap suv (pathfinder). nore how to do a clutch or any thing like that. but a lot of cuts, bruses, cold ass nights under my truck and two clutches. i had a runnning driving pathfinder that was no longer an auto. so i know i can pull this off. maybe not in the time it takes others but i know i can. and if worst comes to worst i will drop the money and try to find someone to do the sas for me. (and maybe see if they will let me help so i can learn).
November 2nd, 2007, 06:50 PM
There are SAS kits for that truck out there because I've seen them but I can't remember brand names right now. Good luck with it & keep us posted on progress.
November 2nd, 2007, 11:01 PM
ORU makes an expensive kit. Go over to Pirate4x4.com and search. There are lots of cheaper ways to SAS a 88-98 GM truck :D ,if only they worked as well on 01'+ HD's.
November 3rd, 2007, 05:14 PM
the problem with the kits is that they are for like 12+ inches of lift. where i only want like 6 or so. but maybe i will be able to get brackets if they ever get back to me.
i am on Pirate but i search and there is sooooo much info on there and write ups it takes a little time and no one really talks about how they figure out where to put their axle (know how to do this example) or other technical stuff like that in their write ups. but i will keep weeding through the wealth of info over there.
November 3rd, 2007, 05:29 PM
sift through it all. its going to give you a much better idea of direction. if youre driving this on the roads, you need to soak up all the information you can.
November 3rd, 2007, 05:40 PM
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