- Model #MB165 BAJA Gokarts/Minibikes, baja warrior mini bike parts
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Model #MB165 BAJA Gokarts/Minibikes, baja warrior mini bike parts
FREE Standard Shipping on orders of $90 or more
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Monster Scooter Parts now offers a huge selection of parts for the Baja Mini Bike MB165 & MB200 models. These mini bikes are also known as pit bikes and are sold in major retailers throughout the United States and Canada.
As an authorized Baja Motorsports repair facility, we have access to all Baja Heat parts and Baja Mini Baja parts. Don't see the part you need? Contact us today for a special order.
The 2010 and older Baja Mini Bike is model number MB165. It is most easily recognized by its chrome handlebars and silver rims.
The 2011 Baja Mini Bike is model number MB200. It is most easily recognized by its blacked out design, with black handlebars and black rims. Most of the parts for the MB165 are compatible with the MB200, but check each item page to ensure compatibility prior to ordering. It should be noted that although the MB200 pull start's label reads 200cc, implying a 200cc engine, the engine on the MB200 is the same 196cc engine on the MB165.
here to download a PDF copy of the Baja MB165 (Baja Heat, Mini Baja, Baja Warrior) Mini Bike with the VIN prefix LUAH Parts Catalog (PDF)
here to download a PDF copy of the Baja MB165 (Baja Heat, Mini Baja, Baja Warrior) Mini Bike with all other VIN prefixes Parts Catalog (PDF)
here to download a PDF copy of the Baja MB200 (Baja Heat, Mini Baja, Baja Warrior) Mini Bike with the VIN prefix LYOY Parts Catalog (PDF)
here to download a PDF copy of the Baja MB200/MB200C (Baja Heat, Mini Baja, Baja Warrior) Mini Bike with the VIN prefix LYOY/LOFG Parts Catalog (PDF)
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Troublesome to put on, but.
by Jonathan Anthony on 12/31/2015 12:14:23 AM
I'm new to this so I thought this wouldn't be bad, and it wasnt. The only problem was modifying parts and aligning the belt that wouldn't align properly with the parts given in the kit. Also the chain wouldn't fit without 2 masterlinks and the keys would fit into the jack shaft without the use of a hammer and wd40 Aside from these annoyances, it's a mighty piece of machinery that'll make your bike much more powerful. buy make sure you have metric with you for sockets.
This "kit" is misleading
by Carl Hight on 5/26/2015 8:45:19 PM
This is just a 1002 kit. If you want the lug nut for the later models it is extra. The bad thing about it it's the wrong lug nut. Should be 1 to 1.37 long and this one is .75. Only maybe two threads engage. Your decals are on backorder and you will never get them.I contacted customer service and that was a joke. *********************ANSWER: Carl, Yes the 1002B for the Baja Minibike is the same as the 1002 with the same price. We offer the 1002B to make it easier for our customers to choose the correct Torque Converter. Yes, you can use the 1" Lug nut if you choose. the 3/4" works just fine. The Baja Engine is a very cheaply made engine. We recommend upgrading the engine. Please see our TrailMaster Monster Dog Minibike with several custom engine options, way better than Baja, Also, decals are in stock, we include them with every order. Thanks, Jeff
Question
by Ray on 11/10/2014 12:30:47 PM
What is the difference between the cover and belt guard?
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High Performance Parts for Baja Warrior, baja warrior mini bike parts
None, that I know of. I made a sprocket adapter to use split sprockets but there was no real interest in them, so only 1 was ever made.
Rods, flywheels, cams, carbs, heads, pistons, valves, springs, everything.
Start with a header and a carb air filter adapter, then go from there.
OR jump right to the governor removal which requires the use of a billet rod and flywheel.
Without the billet rod and flywheel, you basically have a live grenade sitting between your legs.
When you do the billet rod, it is worth it to get 18lb or higher (with a bigger cam) springs and a flat top piston.
A good engine, is the following:
-Choice of carb- like a gx390 carb, 22mm mikuni, nice tilly
-.265 modified cam
-Billet rod
-Billet Flywheel
-Flattop piston
-4* timing advance
-mild porting
-good header
-Chromoly pushrods
-18 or 26 lb springs.
Comet 30 $200
Honda mini trail Brake shoes $30
shortened rear fender (for wheelies) free
stronger return spring from old dish washer (free)
higher quality rear wheel tensioners. old broke. hardware store. $5
BMX foot pegs welded on, old broke off in a crash. Free
genuine GX200 fuel tank. old leaked out the fuel gauge, my fix ruined it. $30 ebay
replaced wrecked pull start with BMI karts one. $15 (i think)
removed the vibration dampeners between the fork and handle bars. too much play. Free
home made exhaust pipe. if you have a welder get to work! Free.
new rear tire, thick knobby ATV tire. $35 (IIRC)
new chain. $10ish
removed fake tank because it kept breaking off every time i welded. Free.
high quality bolts on the handle bar brackets. so i can easily lower to fit in SUV and hit the trails. $4
i think thats most of it. over the winter the following will be done.
Tecumseh HM100 flathead. $170 ebay
mud guard on frame behind front tire. Free from scrap metal
Renthal grips $15
new brake cable? new brake lever?
Key start and light switch. battery mount. taken from tractor
sandblasted frame $35. maybe powder coat
old picture before i took it apart. it has been rode hard, taken underwater, off jumps, up 100 foot sand hills, wrecked so many times
Last edited by Bluethunder3320; 01-02-2012 at 12:49 PM.
Ya, the Baja Warrior has a honda clone motor, so any performance parts for the honda clones could be put on your warrior. Check out OMB Warehouse, NR Racing, Hot Rod Mini Bikes, etc. for parts for your clone.
OMB forever, forever OMB.
Trouble Shooting
Go Karts and Mini Bikes
This reference is designed to help service technicians find and eliminate problems associated with fun karts and mini bikes. It's not meant to be used as a service manual. To successfully use this guide: first, identify the major problem with the unit in question. Second, locate the most appropriate section below. Third, find the major problem in the section and check all possible causes listed. Possible causes are listed in order of probability; the most likely causes are listed first.
WARNING: Assembly, maintenance, and/or repair of the kart or mini bike should only be performed by persons of sufficient mechanical skill, experience, and judgement, so that no unsafe conditions or modifications are made.
GASOLINE ENGINES
Engine Will Not Start
Check gas and oil
Kill switch set to "off"
Choke improperly set
Engine flooded
Spark plug wire not connected
Clogged or wet air filter: The air filter functions as the lungs of the engine, if it is wet or clogged with dirt the engine is unable to "breathe" and may be difficult or impossible to start. Check your filter on a regular basis, more often if you ride in dusty conditions. Clean air filters also prevent the engine from ingesting dirt and sand that damage internal working parts.
Throttle cable is grounding to engine stop terminal
Faulty start switch or battery: electric start units
Stale Fuel: Gasoline in a vented fuel tank can go stale within 60 days. Stale gas smells like varnish and leaves "gummy" deposits that clog the tiny jets of the carburetor. If the engine has been sitting up with stale gasoline in the fuel tank the carburetor may require a soaking in carburetor cleaner to remove these deposits. Remove all the rubber pieces including the throttle shaft seal (o-ring) before soaking. After the carburetor is free of all bad gas deposits it should be reinstalled with new gaskets in place. Make sure your fuel tank is clean and free of stale gas as well.
Will Not Stay Running
Check gas and oil: If the engine has water in the gasoline, it will start, run for a few seconds, then as soon as the water hits the carburetor the engine will die. You can look in the bottom of the gas tank and see water "beading" around if it's present. If the gas tank and carburetor do contain water it has be removed completely.
Loose spark plug wire or bad plug
Clogged or wet air filter
Faulty stop switch
Oil guard sensor is tripping (9hp Vanguard equipped units only)
Throttle cable is grounding to engine stop terminal
Carburetor not functioning properly
Seems Low on Power -
Throttle Will Not Return To Idle
Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Throttle linkage not lubricated
Throttle linkage fastener too tight
Broken, weak, or stretched throttle pedal return spring
Broken, weak, or stretched engine throttle return spring
Engine throttle linkage binding
STOP AND START SWITCHES
Start Switch Does Not Work
-- Electric Start Units:
Check battery voltage and connections
Check start switch connectors
Faulty start switch
Faulty solenoid
Stop Switch Does Not Work
Loose ground wire
Bad connection or broken wire
Loose terminal on engine
Faulty toggle switch
Faulty engine ground terminal
THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Headlights Do Not Work
Headlight burnt out
Bad connection or broken wire
Low Battery Voltage
Poor ground
DRIVE SYSTEMS
Centrifugal Clutch Equipped
Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling
Worn, overheated, or abused clutch - NOT OILED
Drive chain too tight
Engine idle is set too high
DRIVE SYSTEMS
Torque Converter Equipped
Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling
Belt installed backwards (30 Series Only - Flat side goes towards engine)
Wrong belt installed, a belt that's too short will cause the machine to creep at idle
Malfunctioning driver clutch on crankshaft
Malfunctioning driven pulley on jackshaft
Incorrect driver pulley spacing
Engine idle set too high
Pulleys not aligned, will also destroy belts
Rapid Belt Wear
Drive belt installed wrong (30 Series Only, Flat side goes towards engine)
Wrong belt installed
Overloading drive system; climbing hills too steep, pulling heavy loads
Riding the brake
Malfunctioning driver pulley
Malfunctioning driven pulley
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Pulleys not aligned
See the chart at the bottom of this page for more belt drive system trouble shooting info.
Poor, Sluggish Or Jerky Acceleration
Malfunctioning drive system
Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Unlubricated, loose, or worn drive chain
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Engine not functioning properly
Erratic Engagement
Erratic engagement is most often caused by the driver clutch that is mounted on the engine crankshaft. The flyweights in the clutch are sticking or the movable sheave is binding on the hub. Knowing how they work may help you determine why yours doesn't. As engine rpm increases, the flyweights push against the outer drum and force the movable sheave toward the engine causing the belt to travel at a greater circumference around the driver clutch. This action in turn causes the belt to force open the driven pulley, allowing the belt to travel at a lesser circumference around the driven pulley.
As engine rpm decreases, the spring in the driven pulley closes the pulley forcing the belt to a greater circumference. This action overcomes the force of the flyweights against the movable sheave and causes the driver clutch pulley to open, allowing the belt to travel a lesser circumference around the driver clutch. When the engine is at idle, the driver clutch pulley should not engage the sides of the belt. The belt should be loose in the pulley and resting on the bronze bushing around the hub. The bronze bushing serves to protect the belt from rubbing against the spinning hub at idle and also to support a portion of the movable sheave as the sheave moves toward the engine during engagement. The movable sheave must be able to slide freely on the splined hub without binding. Disassemble the driver clutch and clean away any dirt or lubricant residue using an automotive parts cleaning solvent. Do not use a petroleum based lubricant inside the driver clutch or between the hub and movable sheave. Use a dry, molybdenum based lubricant. The extreme heat and pressure inside the driver clutch chars petroleum based lubricants. Petroleum based lube also collects dirt which causes increased wear. Graphite lube is better than petroleum lube, but it also eventually leaves a residue that builds up on the parts, causing them to bind and require more frequent cleaning.
Low Speed
Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Malfunctioning drive system
Improper tire pressure
Engine not functioning properly
DRIVE CHAIN
Chain Falls Off Sprockets
Chain tension too loose
Unlubricated, stretched or worn drive chain
Worn, overheated, or abused clutch
Sprockets not aligned
Bent, worn, or loose sprockets and or sprocket hubs
Loose drive wheel
Bent or loose axle
Bent frame
BRAKE SYSTEMS
Band Brake Equipped - Lining Wears Quickly
Brake rod or cable not properly adjusted
The driver is "riding" the brake pedal too much.
(Remind the driver to push only one foot pedal at a time)
Kart Will Not Stop - Brake Doesn't Work
Brake rod or cable not properly adjusted
Brake band lining/pads worn
No key in brake drum/disk
No key in the wheel hub
Brake Binds Or Won't Release
Brake rod not properly adjusted
Brake linkage not lubricated
Brake linkage fastener too tight
Broken, weak or stretched brake pedal return spring
STEERING
Steering Effort Too High
Linkages not lubricated
Spindle pivot bolt too tight
Improper tire pressure
"Toe-In" not properly adjusted
Binding tie rod end
Bent spindle or tie rod
Bent front axle
Bent steering column
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Go Kart & Mini Bike Parts, baja warrior mini bike parts
Go Kart & Mini Bike Parts. Azusa Go Kart & Mini Bike Kits, Frames and Parts. Comet Torque Converter Clutches and Centrifugal Clutches. Axles, Drive Chain, Wheels, Sprockets, Tires, Tubes, Brake Assemblies and more Go Kart parts.
Manufacturer's Supply is proud to be the internet leader in Go Kart and Mini Bike parts. Visit our online catalog for go cart and Minibike parts, kits, and frames parts. We carry the Azusa line of gokart axles, wheel and brake assemblies. Need a drive chain, gokart centrifugal clutch or drive sprockets? We carry a huge inventory of gokart and minibike parts and accessories for fast delivery. We are one of the leading suppliers for Comet gokart and minibike clutches, belts and repair parts. Are you building a robot for BattleBots, Robot Wars or Robotica? We have wheels, tires, axles and sprockets for your creation.
Go Kart axles & axle mounting kits. Live axle bearing kits. Mini Bike jackshafts.
Go Cart ball & tapered bearings & bushings.
Go Kart and Mini Bike disk, drum and band brake systems & components
Gokart and Minibike centrifugal clutches. Belt drive centrifugal clutches. Comet Go Kart and Mini Bike Comet torque converter drive systems. Racing & High Performance Hilliard Clutches.
Kill switches for Go Carts & Mini Bikes.
Build it yourself Go Kart and Mini Bike kits. List of parts for do-it-yourself builders. Instruction manuals for building our Go cart and Minbike.
Go Kart & Mini Bike kits & frames. Minibike fenders. Engine mounting plates. Mini-bike foot pegs.
Fuel Tubing, fittings, filters
Clevis, clevis pin, keystock, bolts & nuts, Bushings, spacers, and weldment Go Kart and Mini Bike parts (bearing hangers, spindle brackets, pitman arms, hubs, etc)
Go Kart and Mini Bike foller chain, connecting & offset links. Chain guards and deflectors. Chain breakers.
Go Cart & Mini-Bike seats and covers. Bucket seats.
Go Kart and Min Bike steel & aluminum sprockets. Sprocket hubs. Idler and tensioner sprockets. Sprocket guards.
Gokart steering wheels. Go Kart tie rod & ends. Ball joints. Go cart steering spindles, steering shaft.
Mechanical and hydraulic shocks and stabilizer
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Delivery Information
- This item should be delivered appoximately by Wednesday October 05 - Saturday October 08 if ordered today.
- If your order this item together with another item that has a later delivery date, they may be delivered together at the later date.
- Delivery is FREE if your total order value is above AED 250.
- There will be a AED 25 shipping fee for orders below AED 250.
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Returns and Exchanges
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AED 139, baja warrior mini bike parts
Baja Doodle Bug (Blitz, Dirt Bug, Racer) Mini Bike Parts at Monster Scooter Parts, baja warrior mini bike parts
Description: High-quality brand Baja Doodle Bug (Blitz, Dirt Bug, Racer) Mini Bike Parts at a discounted price! From street scooters to mobility scooters, Monster Scooter Parts has the parts you need.aaa
Keywords: Baja Doodle Bug (Blitz, Dirt Bug, Racer) Mini Bike Parts ,97cc Recoil Pull Start for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug 30, & Racer,97cc Recoil Pull Start without Shroud for the Baja Doodle Bug,Kenda 145/70-6 K290 Scorpion Tire for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer Mini Bikes,Carlisle 145/70-6 Tire for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer Mini Bikes,Wanda 145/70-6 Tire for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer Mini Bikes,145/70-6 Front Wheel Assembly for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer,145/70-6 Rear Wheel Assembly for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer,97cc Carburetor with 19 mm Intake for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer Mini Bikes (Huayi),97cc Carburetor with 24 mm Air Intake for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer Mini Bikes (Standard of Japan),97cc Pit Bike Engine for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer Mini Bike (Hensim),Air Filter for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug 30, & Racer,97cc Ignition Coil for Baja Blitz, Dirt Bug, Doodle Bug, & Racer Mini Bikes,Spark Plug for Baja Doodle Bug (Blitz, Dirt Bug, Racer) Mini Bike - BPMR6A,140 Link #35 Chain for Baja Doodle Bug (Blitz, Dirt Bug, Racer) Mini Bike,#35 Open Loop Chain - 10 Feet (320 Links) with Master Link,#35 Open Loop Chain - 3 Feet (96 Links) with Master Link,6201-2RS (6201RS) Sealed Scooter Wheel Bearings (Set of 2),6900ZZ (6900Z) Shielded Scooter Wheel Bearings (Set of 2),#35 Chain Master Link,Chrome Gas Cap (Fuel Cap) for the Baja Doodle Bug (DB30) & the Baja Mini Bike MB165 & MB200 (Baja Heat, Mini Baja, Baja Warrior),Chrome Gas Cap (Fuel Cap) for the Baja Doodle Bug (DB30) & the Baja Mini Bike MB165 & MB200 (Baja Heat, Mini Baja, Baja Warrior),Left Brake Handle for Baja Doodle Bug (DB30) Mini Bikes,Brake Cable for Baja Doodle Bug DB30 (Blitz, Dirt Bug, Racer) Mini Bike,43
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Making A Custom Exhaust For The Baja Warrior Mini Bike
baja warrior minibike. mb200
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